Milan Spring 2014 Fashion Week: Gucci, Dsquared2, and More

From left: A Gucci mesh and metallic silk dress; Close-up details of an Alberta Ferretti spring 2014 dress.

The Dsquared2 label is not meant to be loved or worn by anyone in general. The girl who wears Dean and Dan Coten’s design has to have lots of attitude and confidence to pull of those mini strapless dresses that were presented at their show. It was all about a day at the pool, because models either wore those strapless numbers, or a combination of hotpants paired with suits, cropped tops, or over embellished jackets. There most “normal” pieces most women could deal with were their cropped pants, a navy 50s inspired dress, and some of their luxe detailed coats. The rest may have been too much color in your face like those visible crocodile jackets – in cherry and sky blue – one could notice a mile away. But hey, Dsquared2 knows how to have fun, and even if the clothes weren’t the most compelling of all (it will be for their very loyal customers), one thing for sure is the twins know how to put on a good show that cheers you up no matter what. Let’s take a trip to the pool.

The perks of being an athletic glam Gucci woman. And sexy if you think about it. Frida Giannini has one of the biggest responsibilities where risks aren’t really allowed to be experimented as much as one would like to. She’s the one to claim for making this luxury empire produce millions of dollars each season – Gucci is one of the most savvy brands that sells easily to the point when sales arrive you can hardly get what you wanted (It’s either now or never). And Gucci is one of those labels where party is part of its lifestyle – Slender sexy silhouettes that are eye catching and luxurious. Last season, she sent her models in tight hugging and python numbers that have been a sensation. This time she took a risk and went for a full collection of relaxed silhouettes. Was the risk well received?

Her first model came out in a black provocative mesh shirt with very relaxed printed silk shorts. A feminine version of a men’s basketball shorts? Silk laser-cut metallic prints were the main benefactor that aided in this new silhouette. Prints were injected into oversized t-shirts, caftans, tunic dresses, inspirational track pants, kimonos, and more mesh jackets with insets of triangular bra tops; it was even more intriguing to see models in wet hairstyles as if they had been working out. High lurex, like a green version Karmen Pedaru wore were sporty, while dresses that emphasized the hips hinted a sexier version between the new modern 20s and sportswear. Some of those halter dresses Giannini created were the ones with a bigger potential to be a hit next summer. 

It is no doubt Giannini’s version of sportswear had nothing about simplicity and relaxation. The Gucci women is outspoken, and these looks were surely approved to take them from the streets to the party; I loved how Frida knows her Gucci customer so well. Back to reality, this collection would have worked better if only she would have stopped going wild over those sometimes nostalgic criss-crossing straps. Overall, it was nice seeing the designer going for newer shapes. And side note, if you plan to join the Gucci group here, Giannini sent a secret message about dressing like one: Sandals and flip-flops are unacceptable (none were present here like in other designers). Because nothing looks sexier than a good pair of heels. Agreed. 

Alberta Ferretti designs for the woman who wants to feel romantic and pretty. That’s how it felt at her new South American inspired collection; it seemed she had taken a trip to Mexico from my own visual perspective though. She always chooses light fabrics that are very feminine with only small amounts of embroideries to make someone feel special. The woman who tries on one of her dresses can always leave feeling beautiful. And that was the case with her beautiful floral embroideries etched on dresses and cropped tops that looked sophisticated with bold colored skirts. Threaded bonds of fluorescent colored ribbons attached to white dresses lifted the spirit up, as were her youthful orange and green applique of floral dresses. This was a collection with great sense of fabrics – light, feminine, and subtle – which is how women would want it.

Final Day of Milan Men's Spring 2014 Shows

Day 4 of 4 Milan Men's Fashion Week: Sporty Cool

Vibe: The Power of Blue.

Giorgio Armani seems to feel blue is the power of masculinity. You can't recall a season you won't see specifically any blue, white, or gray in Armani's menswear collection. Blue was for the most part the center of attraction, because it is the way Armani handles his designs that never makes them dull. Graphic t-shirts were interesting to see in Armani's collection. 

He did in fact squeezed in small amounts of pastel colors, like one washed orange trouser with an impeccable brown laser-cut jacket that looked freshening yet classical for the Armani man. Suits weren't as compelling to see, because it is about the same construction that he delivers each season. One white dress shirt in particular - cut in an asymmetrical form with a stand-up collar (above) - felt new, even though we know assymetry is what Mr. Armani favors. Crocodile duffle bags - in white and dark blue-green - were noteworthy.

Vibe: The Jungle Lifestyle.

Dean and Dan are the go to designers for an adventurous journey. That is what Dsquared2 has always been about. In fashion the term "cool" can refer to clothes that have an appealing silhouette that could favor a younger audience. But with Dsquared2 cool is refers to what an actual young teenager would go wild for, begging his parents to give this as his Birthday present. The kid doesn't ask for much. 

The Jungle was the inspiration Dsquared2 took for its men's spring 2014 collection. Baggy jeans, prints of wild jungle animals on jackets, protective boots, and joyful necklaces were just a part of this exciting collection. Their zebra print leather jacket imbued somewhat of a sexier appeal with those olive leather shorts. It was a cool kids dream. Naughty were their printed swim shorts and underwear. Formalwear also had a spice factor they can keenly elevate. A bronze tree branch print suit paired with rich black tailored pants and glossy loafers was a finale that marked the outgoing cool guy Dsquared2 is.

Vibe: The Sleek Morning Trend. 

Z Zegna is like the brother of the high-class Ermenegildo Zegna, who Stefano Pilati made presence of in its spring 2014 collection. They may be brothers with the same taste of luxury house codes, but a very opposite sense of style. What Stefano Pilati made in high-end relaxed silhouettes, Paul Surridge went with high-end sporstwear silhouettes. 

Surridge changed slim pants for more relaxed silhouettes that had a high silky movement that resembled track pants athletes would wear in a much more refined manner. He shifted from dress shirts to light fabric boxy t-shirts tucked under comfortable high-neck knits that looked sophisticated to say the least. There were also a number of suit "pajamas" that had nice relaxed tailoring to them. It was perhaps the color choices that aided them to feel modern. Surridge did include few pastel colors, like a rich cream bone jacket that wasn't too much for the models hairstyle theme. Thin leather bags, almost paperlike, were appropriate for the collection. In short descriptions, it felt like the closet a man would be fond of dressing as in the morning when those tiresome casualness kick in.