Fendi and Prada Spring 2014 Collections: A Beauty of Art and Technology

A review of Fendi and Prada Spring 2014 Collections. 

From Left: Graphic Prada coat and yellow bejeweled shoes; Fendi spring 2014 laser-cut fur top and plastic organza heels.

You know where Karl Lagerfeld goes it’ll always make a great impression. That’s how it was at Fendi’s new spring 2014 collection. You have to respect what Mr. Lagerfeld does, because someone like him has to have a lot of creativity and think fast at the same time. Two weeks from today he’ll be presenting his Chanel show, but we never get a clue what to expect at his other show (unlike Marc Jacobs which you kind of know what to expect at Louis Vuitton). Fendi and Chanel may be done by the same designer, but they definitely have a different taste. Mr. Lagerfeld is a lover of organza – something you won’t see much at Chanel – but given he was at Fendi that was what he showed us.

I never feel intrigued by the way other designers play around with organza, but at Fendi they were the most luxurious, comfortable, and lightest fabrics I had seen. So much technology seemed to have gone into those fabrics. Laser-cut organza was layered in different shades of colors, brought into lovely pastel trench coats, cropped tops, and other tops and skirts etched with triangular patches of razor-thin fur. I loved how he made fur – in dresses, coats, tops, and skirts - accessible for a summery day; that red laser-cut fur jacket and skirt above was everything. Organza never looked so fresh and luxe as it did at Fendi. Well, thanks to Mr. Lagerfeld.

Prada may be one of the biggest highlights of the season other designers may find it hard to beat when it comes to FASHION. Miuccia Prada does fashion. There is never quite a trend to follow at her shows. She just puts them out there for the audience to imagine her compelling stories that go so well with her choice of songs (Work Bitch by Britney Spears was played here). I’ve always seen Prada as a love affair. You think it’s wrong or ugly what she does, but most of us end up loving and dreaming her collection after a couple of times. It’s so awkward but it feels good to think about wearing one her clothes. And that’s the message she always brings to her collection: Don’t judge a book by its cover. Because under all those esoteric layering’s -  soccer socks, ribbed tops, bra tops, skirts - there is something special made just for you; I have her recent men’s summer collection stuck in my mind.   She said her new collection was one of her most personal to date, but it also was one of her strongest collections to date. 

She took sportswear and turned into a powerful message of female struggles. All those graffiti facial portraits that were painted on the murals of her runway were applied to her dresses to give a different meaning to each individual – hope, rejection, depression, happiness. Those images conveyed the power of femininity. She also layered embellished and stamped bra tops over coats and dresses like a form of self-confidence. Am I ready to show skin or not? There seemed to have been so much personal feelings into this collection.

Coats were by far the most noteworthy ones, especially those gorgeous graphic colored mink coats; if her $44,000 floral mink coats from her spring 2013 collection were a sensation, I have a feeling Ms. Prada knew very well what to invest into this collection. But not only will her colorful mink coats (our secret sin) and embellished dresses be displayed on magazines. Her accessories (which always sell the most) like those vibrant sandals and handbags are sure to have customers ordering more than one. And again, all those superb embellishments may be too much for your personal like, but if you analyze the rest, there will be something that will have a meaning to you. That being said, this was a beautiful collection of art.

Milan Menswear Spring 2014: Calvin Klein, Prada, and More

Day 2 of 4 Milan Fashion Week: Innovative Designs

Vibe: Sophisticated Men in Graphic Chalk Marks.

Tomais Maier doesn't need much to describe about his cool sophisticated tailoring that has progressed so rapidly at Bottega Veneta. It seems the brand has turned from being just a young teenager to a man with exquisite taste in luxury. Its spring 2014 men's collection started off fresh and powerful with gray suits - tailored so easily fitted - that shifted into a series of white-chalked outlined suits that portrayed the detailed craftsmanship that goes into making such a suit. They had an illusion, as if the lapels were really sewn it, but if you could get closer you'd see it was only a well played tailoring outline trick. His white subtle button down shirts came with black graphic chalk marks that elevated the mood. 

Maier has become well acquainted in designing very gratifying sweaters that have become a trademark to the growing brand. His intense graphic selection of cardigans and sweaters scored high in this collection. While trousers were appearing to be favoring darker shades, his introduction of white and navy windowpane-checked ones were refined at Bottega's codes; sleek, luxurious, and masculine. His other knitted polo shirts and wide-sleeve shirts were special to the man who seeks to invest in an innovative top. There was one shirt who had outline of a what appeared to be the making of a biker jacket printed over it.  The finale of models wearing white suits, felt more relaxed, but that didn't stop Maier from his triumph.

Vibe: Improved Snake skin and Ostrich Shorts.

There were speculations that designer, Umit Benan, would part away from the famous Trussardi leather goods brand, which he did. So in February, Gaia Trussardi, granddaughter of Dante Trussardi (founder), was appointed as creative director of the entire main line. Who else to do the job and reward them then someone from the family? Gaia is young, but her youthfulness doesn't seem to interfere with her skills, because her debut for Trussardi men's spring 2014 collection was quite a strong one. 

Knitwear pieces had a rugged appeal in colors that seemed to come from the hot desert. By far, her most special items here were her shorts - crafted in leather, ostrich, and snakeskin - that couldn't be allowed to be described as "average." She managed to deliver light touches of earthy leather button-down shirts that could have a potential customer wanting several of them. Her cropped trousers, such as one in a leather snake print, were pleasing in some ways. She also thought about offering options to the client who prefers to wear a luxurious crisp white trouser paired with a super light linen shirt and jacket. One gray tank top done in leather called for next's summer to arrive. Leather or not, the collection had Trussardi's elements.

Vibe: The Color-block Ongoing Trend.

Iceberg can be mostly identified by its cool color-block designs. Its spring 2014 menswear collection couldn't let go of the brand's signature. Federico Curradi sent another great selection of fresh color-blocking designs. His focus this season seemed to be that of the zippers. There were zippers attached everywhere: across sweaters and jackets, side seams of shirts, hems of fitted trousers, pockets of white and black shorts, and shoulder sleeves of t-shirts. All added a cool factor to the the collection. His origami stitched patches of colors on sweaters felt appropriate to wear any season.

Vibe: The Future of Casual Sportswear.

"Formalwear is imbued with the efficiency and comfort of sportswear," were Massimiliano Giornetti's words towards its new spring 2014 menswear collection for Salvatore Ferragamo. It was in fact noticeable what Giornetti was trying to describe previously. Clothes felt so light. So comfortable infused with a spring of colors - light green, caramel, white, khaki, sky blue, orange, and intense blue - that sent a futuristic silhouette to how athletic guys will dress. The play of numbers stitched in tank tops, sweaters, and coats were that of what a sports guy would feel devoted towards. His shorts were crisp and somewhat casual-formal when brought with effortless colors of suits, whilst trousers had a clean cut with those folded layers between the knee. Ones to watch were Ferragamo's techno anoraks. Gladiator leather-type sandals were that of what the true casual athlete would wear. This was a collection that understood what sportswear should luxuriously appear like.

Vibe: Technology of the Sky Prints.

Calvin Klein reminded one of how the future of menswear fashion could look like in those intensely blue numbers; it may have been the hairstyle of the first few models that felt we were in another dimension. Italo Zucchelli's spring 2014 menswear collection was about the "celebration of the summer sky, and the simplicity of the summer wardrobe." The sky is blue, and blue was the color that gave life to most of the high-tech collection. Zuchelli has been a long respected designer, who understands clearly the codes of the Calvin Klein aesthetics, but over the time he has made his signature techniques much more visible. He knows how to choose the best sophisticated high-end fabrics, giving it a sharp futuristic tailoring technique that never fails to disappoint. He began with a series of tech blousons and sweaters - cut in mesh - that were paired with fluorescent wool pants that said tough boy. His cloud print sweaters and t-shirts, and two images of sunset, were sci-fi.  He presented three super authentic crocodile jackets, but one baby blue crocodile vest screamed more luxury than simplicity. 

Vibe: The Knitwear World.

Missoni's spring 2014 menswear runway was decorated with huge threads of yarn on each side that reminded us what we were about to experience. Angela Missoni knows her presentation is never a show without new introductions of fresh knitwear cardigans and sweaters. These are knits you really have to get close to appreciate each and every detail of how the threads of fabric are mixed to understand its luxurious price tag. They do have a very different feel compared to an average knitted one, which is why Missoni is the best at delivering its trendy pieces of knitwear. Button down shirts hand painted in brushes of blue, brown, and red added an interesting effect to them. Suits - made in Missoni's signature print - were refreshening ones, while a new blue checked suit paired with a navy t-shirt were youthful and energetic as the Missoni brand projected.

Vibe: A Quirky-Cool Tropical Vacation.

Leave it up to Miuccia Prada to make your vacation the most interesting of all. It takes time to adjust to the lifestyle Prada prefers to be: ugly-chic. But it is that ugliness that magically turns into a beautiful piece of art that has made the brand so successful over the years. And it wasn't too difficult to fall in love with these collection if you're a huge Prada fan. 

The show began with a tropical print silk shirt paired with a soft tailoring suit and trousers. Most of her suits had a very relaxed silhouette, but her silk numbers - blousons, tropical shirts, and vibrant shorts - had a dominating factor you had to go back again to enjoy. It was as if Miuccia was describing the liberation of man who seeks to advance to the next level of fashion with full confidence. A salmon print blouson with a semi-drawing of a woman had a seductive power. And her knitwear pieces - cut in a smaller size - came in various phases of nature scenes that went from a joyful mood to a calm satisfying state of mind with models sprayed with water to give the show a hot summery season made with love. The atmosphere was everything to give Miuccia Prada a huge applause for her new innovative trend towards menswear fashion. 

Spring/Summer 2013 Trends - 7. Asian Influence

Prada Spring/Summer 2013

Asian construction and prints have had a large influence for Spring/Summer 2013. If anything, attempting to dress yourself in a kimono inspired look will probably land you as the next fashionable person of the season. Prada’s Asian origami interpretation was by far one of the best for many. Prada is known as the eccentric girl who seems to appear unique and fashion forward no matter what. Miuccia knew what she was doing, mixing the 60s with an Asian spice that opened the doors to a softer Prada. Lanvin, a brand who is fit for a leading and self-assured princess, took the dark and seductive route. Dresses were all about construction and pattern rather than prints. Some ruffles decided to take a seasonal vacation here. Etro, the leaders of paisley, were all about the kimono printed top, showcasing the fashionable way of wearing the top. 

Lanvin Spring/Summer 2013

Etro Spring/Summer 2013

Accessory Obsessions

Prada accessories have become one of the seasons most wanted for fall. Beautiful jewelry embroidered bags will upgrade your outfit even more. Which shoes would you go for?