Paris Men's Fashion Week 2014: Saint Laurent, Lanvin, and More
Day 5 of 5 Paris Men's Fashion Week
Vibe: The Dark Rock n' Roll.
Hedi Slimane created quite a controversy ever since he decided to changed the phase of the new Saint Laurent spirit. His first two shows felt like a huge slap from many fashion critics who couldn't bare to see how Saint Laurent would turn into a horrendous rock inspired label. It only took a season when his collection was finally available in most retailers, that most of us understood Mr. Slimane was in fact selling pure luxury; it has now become a big sensation amongst its young rebellious audience.
Slimane seemed more confident of himself for his new Saint Laurent spring 2014 menswear collection. This collection felt way more appealing than his first menswear debut for the label. It was obvious we were to expect another sort of California rock theme fulfilled with lots of black leather, skinny boys, and surprisingly a more relaxed tune. Perhaps it could have been that by know one should be very well acquainted of what the Slimane is focusing on: having a voice towards its youthful audience who want the taste of that rock clean luxury. No need for more drama.
He introduced a series of mesh shirts, polka dot dress shirts, and exquisitely tailored skinny trousers which could have been perfectly appealing on an average model. His suits - leopard prints, checked-windowpanes, and gold sequins - were just a few pleasing noteworthy numbers, whilst his outerwear designs, such as one silver varsity jacket, could become a great hit next season.
On an average perspective, Slimane's decision to letting very skinny boys wear his clothes on the runway, brings down the collecting quite a bit. They say that first impression is what counts, and his skinny guys are the unappealing impression. But once viewed on a well fitted model, it is unbelievable how powerful Saint Laurent still remains after all the changes. His sharp tailoring lets the clothes speak for themselves. It is as if Slimane enjoys playing with our minds. One day we could say the collection was terrible, and the next day we see a famous star porting Saint Laurent's clothes or accessories, you can find us searching for that piece to incorporate into our wardrobe.
Today, Saint Laurent is one of the go to brands for the bad girl/boy who wants to set a statement in those black leather numbers that have become the signature of the new brand. His motorcycle jackets are the most coveted designer ones; a classic now as stated in their description. The only difference about being a bad Saint Laurent girl/boy is having the necessary amount of money to satisfy ones need, because prices for these babies - a jacket retailing at $5,900 - fits more the spoiling brat who doesn't give a hell how the economy is right now.
Vibe: Strong Silhouettes.
While many men's wear designers were going for strong floral prints, Lanvin went with not a single dose of print. Instead they focused on their tough relaxed tailoring, which made this collection one of the strongest presentations of paris men's spring 2014 fashion week.
Alber Elbaz and Lucas Ossendrijver went with a number of matching rich silk pants (pajama-like) and t-shirts that were a stand innovation for the duo. Their was something in their style that imbued an urban masculine appeal most men could favor. Being pure silk the choice of fabric that could lean towards femininity, there was none of that feminine l'air in these looks. Suits - less strictly tailored - were actually pleasing to see coming from Lanvin. Perhaps their precise choice of fabric and color is what made them one of the best relaxed silhouettes compared to other brands; so mesmerizing.
Texture was replaced for prints. It was intriguing to see a pair of trousers (pictured right above) with such a luxurious texture you could easily feel when zoomed closer. At far they could have been perceived as a fading print, but they were actually a living print just as were their glossy sweatshirts and tank tops. It seems Lanvin came with a stronger force of authority in men's fashion this season, which we hope continues on to next season so triumphantly.
Vibe: A Joyful Life of Living Colors.
Color is the living DNA of the Paul Smith man. Tailoring is also what makes his colors more refreshening to watch. And the injection of youthfulness in his designs finish describing who is the Paul Smith guy. To say the least, his spring 2014 menswear collection was enough to understand the brand without too much fashion vocabulary: easy and joyfully stylish.
His suits, slim-ly tailored with insects of different colors on hems of sleeves and suits, were quite pleasing to see, but maybe not so gratifying to see on his color-block trousers. They weren't poorly made by no means, but there was something missing to them; just blah. If some his outerwear jackets could have had less zippers and more emphasis in construction, they would have been the perfect ones to wear. There was one navy and white checked blouson that made a nice intro.
What were noteworthy were his colorful sweaters and short-sleeve shirts. In conclusion it seems there will always be four things we will always be fond to see Mr. Paul Smith design exquisitely: a great suit jacket; a pair of great tailored trousers with no color-block or prints; an outstanding casual or dress shirt with or without youthful prints; and a delightful sweater that will never be out of style no matter what season were in.