Chanel Knows How to Have Fun

A review from Chanel, Valentino, and Alexander McQueen Spring 2014 Collections.

Give Karl Lagerfeld a paintbrush and he’ll probably laugh at you. He doesn’t take art as serious as other designers are doing in their collections. In fact, he injects irony like he did at his Chanel spring 2014 collection; he took modern art and developed it into a chic fashion statement. The setting of the show – an art gallery - consisted of 75 fake art pieces Mr. Lagerfeld proudly stated he did them over the summer. Well, those oversized art pieces weren’t made by him, but you get the idea – he specifically instructed how he wanted it to be done. He must have been the only designer who had fun over the break, because these clothes were nothing but fun pieces of art that were wearable or fit for your salon.

Color was more than enough to satisfy any woman. He began with a series of iconic Chanel tweeds or vibrant lightweight bouclé in pink, navy, gray, and white. There were gorgeous knits, sleeveless and short dresses with insets of lace and cropped tops, relaxed leather-thin pants and t-shirts, and much more. He basically offered women all the trends that we’ve been seen from other designers in one whole show; punk, classic, or chic – you decide how you want to look.

The highlights of this presentation though were his finale of multicolor print dresses composed of pleated strips sewn together. You had to see these pieces up close to understand why Mr. Lagerfeld is such a genius. They weren’t just a rainbow of color strips splattered on them or taken into a heating device for pleats to come out perfect…………….they were done with superb intelligence (creativity) and sophistication as the Chanel lady implies. 

 Accessories – graffiti backpacks, creative canvas handbags, oversized pearls that resembled some cool headphones and bracelets, metallic chain phone cases, trompe de l’oeil shoes, and appearances of Lego purses – took the entire collection to a wonderful irony of masterpiece without letting go the Chanel essence. 

Only Karl can make an 89 piece collection look so non-boring and youthful than ever with a vast amount of amazing unique variety, color, and texture. We’d just wish we were part of the Karl/Chanel world; as a guy, I’d love to be the artist model, Marlon Texeira, ported down the art gallery. 

A male model wearing a multi-color printed shirt and washed pants at the Chanel Spring 2014 show.

At Valentino, Maria Grazia Chiuri and Pierpaolo Piccioli, were inspired by the world of theatre and opera that led to creating a modern day luxury collection. More descriptive would be the renaissance couture and romantic luxury that runs through the DNA of the house.
 Honestly, if you ever seen their previous collections, you’d find out they do just about the same types of dresses, but etched with different ideas. It gets boring besides their hot mini-dresses that are a hit every season, which next spring will come beautifully embroidered with prints and flirty peekaboo details; all the front row women looked sexy in the duo’s fall collection. 

I was intrigued this season though with their long-sleeved dresses – although always bell shaped – that looked more youthful and extremely luxurious with great amounts of Valentino’s signature renaissance prints and lace and tulle. They looked even more enticing for young conservative ladies when worn with sandals; it’ll work for the South. 

Pleasing were their knitwear or crochet sweatshirts, embroidered jackets, bow-tie shirts spliced semi-halfway and tailored shorts. It showed the designers are bringing more variety to the brand, or maybe it was just a pretty collection of prints that helped out. 

Alexander McQueen still keeps the beautiful couturier details stamped on its clothes with Sara Burton at the house. I find it hard to describe this collection, because you really have to dive deeply into these pieces to praise their glorious craftsmanship. 

Behind those accessories – helmets, gold and silver harnesses, and chokers – there were surprisingly a great amount of wearable clothes the average customer could wear this time: intricate printed, embroidered, and crocodile bra tops; perforated printed coats; fascinating laser-cut tops and kilts over pants (like a burgundy one pictured above); a white laser-cut dress that was invigorating to watch with diminutive red splashes of couture; and sumptuous flared skirts. 

While her finale of feather and fringed numbers may not have been ones to wear in real life for most of us, they did make a triumphant statement of the real work the McQueen label is so famous for. There is an intense amount of luxury and hours of work that goes into making one single piece of art come to life so magically.

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Details:

From Left: Valentino, a black lace and embroidered mini-dress; Alexander McQueen, a colorful embroidered and laser-cut sleeveless dress; Chanel, a multi-color dress created with layers of pleats and strips sewn in.

Part 2 of 2: A Continuation of Commercial Paris Collections

Part 2 of 2: A review of Stella McCartney, Elie Saab, and Saint Laurent Spring 2014 Collections

A close-up of a Saint Laurent SS14 red zebra and bow-tie sequined dress; a Stella McCartney patchwork lace dress; a red embroidered Elie Saab dress.

A continuation of Part 1 of 2: Paris Fashion Week is Full of Excitement. 

I respect how Stella McCartney has developed her own niche that works so well for the label. Her clothes are always chic, sexy, and comfortable looking with the sportiness she injects into them. Although lately, I believe she may be having too much of a commercial or resort thing stuck in her mind. We were all dying for her edgy relaxed silhouettes that worked for all women when she started, but with so many new designers and high competition today she's staying behind compared to other designers who have developed much more intense creativity. 

She hasn’t lost it all though. Some that were noteworthy here were her interpretations of slimming track suits that came in feminine colors - burgundy, blue, and rose - that focused on the daily needs that have attracted her customers. And those final splendid dresses – colorful patchworks of lace that looked beautiful in the front and the back – will have her women very content for another season.

Elie Saab also appears to be mixing in commercial and his signature lace and embroidery in his ready-to-wear collections. All there is to say is that they make a beautiful collection his loyal customers and young girls will be pleased with in delicate pink, white, green, red, and black. Floral prints and appliqué statements were a plus. 

I’ve already talked about Hedi Slimane as new creative director for Saint Laurent. While on the runway this collection may look trashy and horrible on some of those skinny models, these clothes look superbly different on real people – Kate Upton, Angelina Jolie, Scarlett Johansson – and even normal on his menswear counterpart. There is power to these looks and if Slimane wants to shock the fashion world again, it’s hard to now, because most of us feel comfortable with what he offers. It’s just a matter of imagining someone perhaps like Johansson in them (minus those kitsch sock heels). 

He presented again his grungy leather pieces – skirts, pants, biker jackets, dresses, suits – and emphasized still on chiffon button-down shirts, slim fitted tuxedo cigarette pants paired with borrowed men’s suits. What felt new was a sequined dress, like one he sent out the runway at the beginning of the show and another red zebra stripped dress with a sequin bow-tie wrapped around the waist. There were also cropped jackets, a red sequined striped top, sequined silver-y suits and miniskirt combo, and his final half-sleeve with a puffed up shoulder embroidered with sequined red lips that stated luxury.

He also included color like a deep-cut green mini and asymmetrical blue dress, and a pink strapless one over a black blazer. I personally found a gold metallic wrapped dress he showed would make a great statement for those girls with special attitude. Overall, this wasn't a bad collection if you first learn to see it from a different perspective. As long as that cash registers keeps ringing, nobody else gives a damn what haters have to say. He's just doing his job now, making this label return to everyone's mouth. And trust me, these clothes do look much more inviting on the floor (retail store) then what saw Monday night.

Part 1 of 2: Paris Fashion Week is Full of Excitement

PART 1: A Review of Kenzo, Chloé, Céline, and Givenchy Spring 2014 Collections.

From Left: A wine embroidered draped dress from Givenchy SS14; an olive pleated dress from Chloe; and the back of Celine blue pleated top

Paris Fashion Week is about to end, but that hasn’t stop Paris from showcasing some of the top labels from the fashion industry. Some made a very surprising presentation like at Celine with its giant strokes of art tailoring and Givenchy in its number of intense draped jersey dresses, while others kept their lines luxe commercial like at Chloe’s modern fabrics , Stella McCartney’s intriguing sporty silhouettes, and Elie Saab’s injection of lace that would look great from daywear to evening. Saint Laurent also infused its bias grunge aesthetics into metallics, deep v-cut colored dresses, and of course black leather looks. And all this happened in only two days that explains why Paris is still the center of Fashion. 

Kenzo has turned its logomania items – tiger sweatshirts, blankets, hats – and prints into iconic items anyone can afford to wear and look cool. If it weren’t for those sweatshirts, I believe I probably wouldn’t have been intrigued to seeing their progress or writing about this label. Or it’s probably ever since designers Humberto Leon and Carol Lim were appointed creative directors to the house that have turned Kenzo into a pocket friendly and desirable brand among teenagers. You won’t leave a Kenzo show without being submerged into an overwhelming amount of prints that while it may not work for critics it sure does turn the switch for its younger audience. Humberto and Carl know their marketing skills very well, because if an eye design can sell pretty well, I bet their new series of melting-fish and scribbled waves – in blue, pink, and red – will be swept away and turned into the next street style moment. New were few outfits designed with patches of thick contrasting strips.

Chloé may have also demonstrated to be one of the most effortless and chic girls when it came to true casualwear at its spring 2014 collection Sunday morning. We already know Chloé is one of the labels girls trust when on a busy daywear schedule. You don’t want to look overly dressed, but neither too casual. And over the time, the lovely balance between a boyish rigor and feminine fabric that has become the signature of the brand seems to be shifting around into only relaxed feminine appeal with the exception of its cool cropped trousers. Creative director, Clare Waight Keller, was thinking about modernity – giving clothes and effortless look with more movement through lighter fabrics.

She played around with fabric and proportional details that added a mighty brisk to the new collection – lightweight chiffon dresses that were made to wear for any woman (no ultra-revealing transparency that would require someone to add another slip-dress underneath); super-chic georgette tops and jacquard looks; rough lace dresses; and edgy pleated designs that gave a great amount of texture and attitude to the clothes. Ms. Keller exceled at introducing her vision of a new Chloé without forgetting the boyish swirl Chloé has been so fond of in very thoughtful olives, whites, blues, and black paired with casual sandals. And a small dose of pale pink to brighten things up.

At Céline, Phoebe Philo gave her clothes another different type of movement through her asymmetrical number of pleated skirts painted with gorgeous brushes of strokes over effortless pieces of tailored T-shirts and tank tops that were artwork. What were more intriguing is how she played exquisitely well with colorful pleated tops taken from knits.

 This collection was the most surprising and one of the best to date so far from Philo. She took art and she referenced it perfectly on her designs. Art is a form of movement, freedom, and a state of mind. These clothes were powerful for the woman who knows how to wear them - especially her number of artistic coats with opening gold circles etched on them and graphic buckets of paints spilled on some. They’ll be a hit next season together with her creative selection of shoes and handbags. 

Riccardo Tisci's Givenchy also surprised everyone with his more mature take on draping. Everyone knows who Tisci is now: the guy who hangs around with Kanye West and designs one of the best graphic t-shirts and sweatshirts according to his young clientele.  He knows that’s what sells the most, and prices them at very high values. Whether a lot of work goes into an ordinary black “Pervert” t-shirt or not, he knows it’ll sell at any price he stamps on it. 

This time he let go of those graphic statements and put his work on draping these dresses in several different manners. It felt like watching an advanced draping segment video lesson; they somehow felt awkwardly delicate. His final pleated ones in metallic embroidery and sequins were the ones that were eye catching. Tisci really did push the boundaries here without letting go of his signature dark atmosphere. His spring 2013 collection didn’t work, but this succeeded. 
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Continue Reading more -->Part 2 of 2: A Continuation of Commercial Paris Collection

A Moderate Finale for New York Fashion Week Spring 2014

A review from the Ralph Lauren, Calvin Klein Collection, and Marc Jacobs Spring 2014 shows. 

From Left: Details of a Marc Jacobs Spring 2014 coat; Calvin Klein cotton tweed deconstructed seams; Ralph Lauren spring 2014 floral pattern trench coat.

The last day of New York Fashion Week contains one of the most anticipated and recognizable international designers of all time. It sounds appropriate to end fashion week with such designers like Ralph Lauren, Francisco Costa of Calvin Klein, and Marc Jacobs. But contrary to day 6 and 7 that included one of the best shows of the season – Narciso Rodriguez, Oscar de la Renta, Michael Kors, etc. – day 8 (the last day) wasn’t so compelling after all for these three designers. 

Ralph Lauren has always had a talent for telling such a beautiful and romantic story. It’s hard not to grasp what the designer’s new theme is all about. For his new upcoming spring 2014 collection, there was a minute I thought a new creative director had been hired to take over the label. The clothes looked like something similar you’d find at a commercial retail store. I felt disappointed there were not that many truly designer pieces that conveyed a gorgeous detailed story like last season’s Russian inspired coats and dresses most women would dream of becoming the protagonist. 

He began with sporty (60s inspired) school uniform looks in black and white that later transformed into stripes, and patterned suits accessorized with big chunky ties. They added a very youthful appeal to the new collection, especially when paired with his midi A-line skirts and black leggings. His geometric and floral print numbers were simply nice and pretty, not aweing. He also wanted to introduce a series of strong neon colors – green, orange, yellow, red, and blue – that turned up to be nostalgic. There was a great start to the cut of these sporty designs, but it was clear that if Mr. Lauren would have used his perfectly feminine pastel colors, these looks would have added much more presence.  Evening dresses like a blue neon one Karlie Kloss wore above or a final red dress with a cape were the most convincing ones in this minimalistic collection.

Mr. Lauren knows how to do great evening gowns just like any other piece in his collection, but taking into consideration how much emphasis he has put into his previous collections of masterpiece, this may be the first time and the only time this collection lacks character. But was this collection nice? Yes, indeed, but we know Mr. Lauren can do so much more than this when it comes to his personal COLLECTION. 

At Calvin Klein, Francisco Costa wanted to expose deconstructed seams to say the least. It looked better in pictures than it did close-up. The clothes had a nice message of a minimalistic touch in most of the looks, even though most pieces seemed to have been unsewn at the hems and sides of tops. 

The first model came out with a white strapless top and skirt that looked awkward with those exposed side seam allowance I’d wonder how many women would want to be walking around with their seams and threads exposed; his colored cotton tweed – red, mint, and pink – made an interesting intro to the classical colors of the label –black, gray, and white. There could have been a great potential for his new jackets to become a hit if only he wouldn’t have added too much confusing patchworks into them.

His most innovative looks that imbued a subtle couture sensibility were his yarn like threads that acted as fringe. He used some colored threads to etch into one woven leather black jacket and skirts, but his final three looks of fringed dresses were the ones that were noteworthy. And if you though everything was lost, his snake print tops and dresses patchworked from graphic leather and silk (above) were what minimalism should have been all about in this collection. 

I believe the collection could have worked, but the problem with the clothes was Francisco’s use of stiff fabric that didn’t help much. It became an esoteric collection maybe even editors themselves didn’t quite grasp. One thing I did admire about Mr. Costa in this new collection was his attempt to experiment with more proportions while keeping the Calvin Klein aesthetics untouched.

If you didn’t quite understand what Francisco Costa was trying to do, then you certainly may have been confused with Marc Jacobs’ new spring collection. It felt more wintery then summer with those dark bulky clothes that went down the mystical setting. Well, the clothes did go well together with the dirty, gothic, vintage runway props that were built for the show. And somehow, this was a weird collection for Mr. Jacobs that worked in some sort of way.

His oversized shoulder jackets embroidered with tassels weren’t that pleasing, but his detailed shorts were the ones that may have a potential when next summer arrives. His jackets would have been very enticing if only he would have toned down those shoulders, but he seemed to have known the audience reaction, and he did lower its volume in some of them; Mr. Jacobs always knows. Other chunky leaf patterned tops and dark colored sweaters matched with beaded skirts and Uggs look alike were just amusing. I actually happened to find his leaf patterned and final embroidered dresses quite normal for a casual day paired with sneakers or sandals. 

The most important part one should understand about Marc Jacobs is that he is a risk taker, and the woman who wears his label is one who is very confident in who she is. She doesn’t have a season in her wardrobe as well as a dress code from daywear to evening. She just puts whatever on, and as long as its luxury, doesn’t give a damn about what the rest have to say. And that’s what we love about a Marc Jacobs show. You never know what he’ll bring next season.

An Approach to Minimal Femininity at Spring 2014 Shows

From left: Close-up geometric cuts of a Narciso Rodriguez brocade dress; A bronze metallic textured cropped top; A black chiffon with a ruched detailed bodice.

It is no secret that American designers have one of the best luxury sportswear aesthetics women want. Something European designers envy when it comes to loosening naturally in such a manner. Americans love the mix of casualty, semi-formal, and luxury when dressing up, and American designers understand that demand very well; there was such a minimalistic approach designers took this time with sportswear. And even though we tend to focus more on international designers at the end, there were fascinating pieces some designers offered for next season at New York Fashion Week spring 2014 that proved to be on top of the league.

Narciso Rodriguez crowned himself with one of the best shows of the season. Minimalism is hard to master, but not for this incredible designer. There was something so intriguing about what Narciso did with proportion, cuts, and simplicity that put him on a high level of must see designers. He’s been keeping hems just below the knee for the past few seasons, but his new collection was all about bringing hems to the mid-thigh or even higher yet perfectly managing in keeping a refined ladylike balance; no vulgarity. 

He opened the show with a perfectly cut graphic white wool and black leather jacket that looked appealing with his dubbed version of a mini-skirt; they were actually short shorts with a panel at the front. Other skirts – ones cut to form double layers, other etched with different shades of fabric, and two white and black skirts layered over long chiffon fabric – were invigorating. 

What put him on the spotlight of triumph were not only his skirts, but his superb approach to minimalism, which wasn’t so minimalistic after all. The clothes were put together piece by piece in a very intriguing way that looked so effortless. I couldn’t have imagined how long it took to cut small slices of brocades and stitched them all together to look unified, or his detailed fringed embroidered tops which I suppose were more than embroidery as were his technical use of sheer, chiffon, and organza constructed into one slipdress. 

His final dresses were simply terrific. At far or in pictures, they appeared to have been embroidered or laced, but in reality those shiny patches were none the less but silk bonded to these dresses; it made you want to be close and personal to these light beauties.

 I haven’t had the opportunity to meet Mr. Rodriguez in person, but he appears so humble and shy that his simplicity of light spaghetti dresses (no one does it better than him) and super sharp tailoring make a sumptuous minimalism that just clicks for him. His pastel colors – pink, orange, grays, yellow – and black and white were feminine but sexy without overlooking it. It was almost a perfect collection - even shoes and handbags - other designers should start taking note.

Reed Krakoff was also fighting to imbue a minimalistic touch of femininity. It worked in some, like his asymmetrical chiffon dresses with a ruched bodice or nice looking satin sleeveless trench. But it lacked creativity, because even though Mr. Krakoff may be one to love for his sportiness and sharp tailoring (it was present here), there are other labels already producing these type of looks. Mr. Krakoff can become a copycat if he doesn’t awe with his innovation. But again, he left Coach to put more time into his own label, and with all the scandal that had been going on with his departure, I’ll let this one pass. One thing I admired though was his luxurious satin techniques, something the Rodarte sisters should take note; pictures can fool you from the true messy reality. It was also nice to see an intricate mesh appliqué of flowers on a white dress; it earned him some bonus points.

At Oscar de la Renta there was really not that much to talk about. Mr. de la Renta is a genius who always has something available for every generation of women. From Karlie Kloss’s opening luxurious lady look – double-face sleeveless coat, cardigan, and pencil skirt – to strapless dresses, like a short salmon chiffon detailed dress for those young girls who need a little mix of class and youthfulness. It makes sense for Mr. de la Renta and for me.

Botanical prints were just the perfect brush of femininity, embroidery like a white numbered one above I could see any kind of women in, and lace and crochet numbers were a triumph for this icon. He knows what women want and does it in a very American sophisticated manner. It’s impossible to leave an Oscar de al Renta show without feeling cheerful and with great memories of beautiful pastel colors. Just like any other, his new gorgeous embroidered and tulle evening dresses, can leave any women feeling like a princess. A light green puffed up textured dress was one I had some younger girls’ state they’d be dreaming for their Quinceanera. Gorgeous Mr. de la Renta. Just a gorgeous collection.

And while some were producing ladylike and minimalistic clothes, the guys at Proenza Schouler were trying to give it all with their urban luxe. Lazaro Hernandez and Jack McCollough are the designers everyone wants to hang out with. In simpler terms, they know how to make something look cool and effortless. They have a keen eye for superior craftsmanship that always awes. This season they seemed to have taken an approach to minimalistic urban wear, which wasn’t the most aweing thing to see but neither was it horrible. They boys somehow have learned to mix a designer collection with marketing techniques that work well, like in their new collection.

Their wide crepe pants cut well above the ankle were the ones that were noteworthy paired with lustrous metallic cropped tops and straight peplum suede tops. A burgundy red dress with a wrap skirt, along others was pleasing. Their lurex knit evening dresses and metallic pleated skirts were also show stopper. If this was their approach for still looking effortless, it worked, but I would have loved some more hardcore structures that I’ve been fond of for the past few seasons.

Last but not least, Michael Kors was the one who definitely knew how to balance his marketing side between his new collection. It was ridiculously chic and energetic. This would be the collection women would happily wake up to take their kids to school, go grocery shopping, take a walk along the park, and do so much more feeling feminine and effortless in what they wore. Even the models conveyed a fresh look with those minimum hairstyles.

It was as simple as putting on a slender white trench coat that added so much femininity with that flirty light brown belt, or layering on a light vibrant cardigan over your printed cropped bra top and pencil skirt. Crochet numbers were also beautiful and chic. And silk beaded dresses were perfect for a special meeting or date.

More Spring 2014 NYFW Shows: Tory Burch and Timo Weiland

Vibe: Going to the French Riviera Honey.

“The Easy Glamour of the French Riviera in the late 1960s.” That was Tory Burch’s inspiration for her new spring 2014 collection; it clicked immediately when a French country song played before the show. It’s hard not to love Tory Burch in the spring. There are some nice fall pieces to choose from in her label, but you have to agree spring is her niche. It’s flirty, youthful, and descent. Just what women need for a hot summery day in the Riviera. 

She opened the show with a beautiful white embroidered botanical print cotton dress that made its presence on other tops and pants. Her creative designs of embroidery and applique were the highlight of the show. It was even more captivating to see the final pieces of jeweled-collared dresses that would look effortlessly glamorous for any occasion; no need to accessorize. She also offered simpler botanical prints, like ones printed on jeans and cute dresses, the South would greatly appreciate.

Chic were her peter pan collar numbers – a green crochet and silk dress, jersey and crepe de chine print tops, knits etched with these collars, and other embroidered and laser-cut leather dresses. There was a lot of potential for this collection to be a success when spring arrives next season. Without a doubt, her collection was easy on eye, but with very luxurious fabrics. I can already picture girls wanting those white leather-laced dresses accessorized with her belt wrapped around her lower waist and mini bag for a hot summery day. And for those flirtier girls, her introduction of swimwear pieces were a must have. 

Vibe: Just the clothes you want to wear _______.

Timo Weiland is quite a new brand that just keeps growing in a very positive manner. When it comes to menswear, the designers (Timo Weiland and Alan Eckstein) know how to execute something with refined tailoring. They’ve mastered menswear very well though, but they are still developing their mastering for womenswear.

It wasn’t quite clear what the inspiration was for their spring 2014 collection. Although, we could tell there was a sporty mood transmitting in some of their looks.  Either way, when prices come fair, I’d admit I have to let this one slip off. What worked here were their tank tops, a graphic sleeveless white dress with ruffled hems that created a two-piece set (tank and skirt); bonus points, an interesting print for a must have cropped top, and some knitwear and patchwork pieces (like one color-block dress with an open waist). Those were interesting to watch, and just appreciate the designers are taking time to mix fabric to make them work together without looking dull; great color and fabric use in most of their looks.

In the men’s side, they only presented five looks, but were enough to make them great pieces to incorporate into a men’s wardrobe next season. That light white cardigan with black spaced lines had the right elements for a summer look, and their outerwear jackets were worthy of a try, like their black leather hoodie any guy would want. 

Spring 2014 Shows: Victoria Beckham, Derek Lam, and More

Victoria Beckham really stepped it up this season. She was looking for a boyish sportswear tailoring look, and she made it look flawlessly chic. Other designers have really gone for the tomboy 90s looks, but not her. There were so many special pieces in this collection that separated her from other designers themes that looked overt (I could name several now). Fashion is not meant for everyone – not even for celebrities who get criticized harshly when in a collaboration – but I’ll state it again, and with all the confidence in the world, Victoria Beckham is not a celebrity anymore, she’s a true designer who has earned the respect of many. 

She’s gaining confidence (and a good one) in outerwear. She began her show with a relaxed black and white ruffled top and cropped pants (these contained a very sharp tailoring) paired over a crispy white rounded shoulder suit jacket. There was only one white baseball jacket she showed – detailed with black cuffs and collar, and transparent sheer sleeves – that was breathtaking. Her sleeveless suit vests were also noteworthy. Yes, it was only a small percentage of outerwear, but enough to go for one (or two in another color).

 Now, if there was anything that assured Victoria Beckham’s designer aesthetics for details and high-tech fabric combos were the following: her midi skirts slashed to show details of pleats underneath (an interesting way to show creativity on layering), and her laser-cut inverted triangles – in fuchsia and white - etched on shirts. Beckham is better known for her immaculate glove-fitted dresses every women dreams of, but this new soft tailoring collection sure does have another run for the money. Oh, and if you wondered how Mrs. Beckham dressed for her applause, she wore a white shirt with her cropped blacked pants. So posh. 

Derek Lam is a designer who has been designing clothes for women. Sounds obvious, but that’s the only thing that comes to mind when you see his collections. His graphic checked prints were simply easy on the eye. That is what women want. Luxury clothes that looks effortless and gorgeous. There were some that may have not loved this collection, being that Mr. Lam designs for a more mature lady. But for the woman who has the opportunity to encounter with a Derek Lam piece, she sure has come across a beautiful treasure. 

He had lots to offer for next spring 2014; his color-block numbers from last season have been a sensation. His belted coats – washed gray and blue denim – may have looked minimal, but at a close-up you could appreciate all its details. Highly structured raffia skirts (especially one in yellow) and dresses were luxurious for such a fabric. These is how we’d want our mature girls rocking something out, and for younger girls, going bananas over those gladiator heels. 

DKNY, Donna Karan’s youthful sister label, conveyed a good energy for next season. Sportswear was yet again the theme of Karan’s spring 2014 presentation. Honestly, there never seems to be an inspirational theme that focuses on each collection, but the cool sporty looks make up for the uncertain themes. It is a ready-to-wear line after all, and DKNY finds ways to make each season seem different. 

Her vintage bandana prints were refreshing, while her denim fabrics – overalls and patchwork jeans – sent a 90s vibe that later affirmed with her sneaker looks and logo dresses. Her lavender and turquoise numbers projected much more girl power. One silk orange spaghetti strap dress Karlie Kloss wore seemed appropriate for a casual day to go shopping for some groceries yet well put together. 

Diane Von Furstenberg also had an “oasis” going on at her show. Her clothes never fail, are always marketed at fair prices and best of, are made for any type of curvy woman. We can tell she never thinks about clothes they way she wants them to be on skinny girls. Yes, thin models model her collections, but right away there are many options for women to choose from here.

There were selections of wilder prints to more tone down ones. She went from nice cropped tops to color-block and animal print gold buttoned denim shirts made for everyone. And her iconic wrap dresses updated to still look good on any woman.

 The most important part of wearing a DVF piece is having fun in it, and that’s what some of her smiling and graceful models were projecting. This is why she is the president of the CFDA. She herself is her own muse, managing to look youthful in anything she wears at her age, and so should you in her designs. Maybe that’s why she had the queen of the runway, Naomi Campbell, confirm that in one short gold embroidered dress. Age has no limits at DVF.

Spring 2014 Shows| Prabal Gurung, Altuzarra, and More

Designer: Prabal Gurung

Sweet colors. That was Prabal Gurung’s idea of his new Spring 2014 “preserved elegance.” The theme didn’t quite convey the message in the clothes, but it did help with the setting. The models began the show with lining each other in two rows inside a plastic covered curtain and a melancholy song that made up for the lost theme. It felt more futuristic, which was something that did imbue in Mr. Gurung’s high-tech fabrics. 

The show began with a white cotton sheath number that exposed a plastic harness in the back. He really wants his harnesses to become a wardrobe staple for women. 

He played around with what he does best at – digital prints. It was captivating to see prints etched on plastic skirts and raincoats (every woman should own one of this), tweed, paper-thin leather, and glossy satin colored pieces that were major. His pastel colors – pink, lavender, green, red, baby blue, and yellow – made up a beautiful rainbow for a Saturday afternoon. Surprisingly, there were only three pants shown in the entire collection, but all had a great potential to sell out, especially that hot fitted lavender one with white details. Some final evening or cocktail dresses were also red carpet ready. Say that eye catching baby blue sweetheart satin dress we can’t get out of our minds yet.

Maybe he meant to make this collection preservation for the future of elegance. If that were the case, he outdid himself. But if we were to implement harsh fashion into this review, who would this remind you of? Wouldn’t you see a dose of Prada or something our true fashion innovator, Raf Simons, has already done at Dior?

Designer: Alexander Wang

If there was anything present at Alexander Wang’s Spring 2014 collection, it was full on retro 90s. The setting reminded one of a badass school playground. Mr. Wang knows very well how to communicate with the streets, and it sure was present here. Street style has been the sole that has turned his label into a fanatic obsession amongst young liberating teenagers. 

The first three ruffled miniskirts – gray, blue, and pink – with white waistbands were sexy for the beginning of the show. It followed along with a number of gray cropped slouchy gray pants that looked the best in their white waistbands. There was something sort of fetish-y with some of the looks Wang sent out – hospital type gowns, men’s boxer-inspired shorts, single-buttoned collar shirts, “Parental advisory explicit content” tops, and laser-cut leather provocative overalls encrypted with “Alexander Wang.”

He brought back the logomania 90s with his ‘Alexander Wang’ printed tops, laser-cut ‘Wang’ leather gloves, and more that was put in your face. His best looks of the show were a black leather laser-cut “Wang” coat, and his visible stitched denim jackets. And we can’t forget about those overalls we hope to see someone wearing very soon discretely if they can. Overall, these pieces certainly had a demand for that target audience, and it was refreshing to see Wang include a slightly bit of color into his clothes this time. 

Designer: Altuzarra

Altuzarra is one of the most anticipated shows in New York, and one of favorites amongst editors who we see wearing his label all the time. Joseph Altuzzara went for a more liberating tailoring this time, narrowing his structured embellishments to simply “layers.” Don’t take it wrong though, because if it’s Altuzarra doing his version of layering, it’ll be in the most genuine and luxurious manner. 

The show began with Joan Smalls wearing a silk striped button-down shirt and high-thigh semi-fringed skirt. If the first look said easiness with her shirt unbuttoned all the way to her waist, the rest was even more intriguing. Just about all skirts came with super-high slits on the left, but with Altuzarra’s signature of casual fringing. The most interesting skirts were the ones that seemed to be derived from an original button-down shirt cut to form a simple skirt; these will generate opinions and DIY when prices are revealed. 

The silk and layered shirts were the best part of this collection, but if the Altuzarra woman had something to say about these pieces it’d be in his suit jackets fitted to look easily luxurious with anything. His liquid silver and gold numbers – skirts, top, and dresses – brought a soft tailoring that were noteworthy. 

Spring 2014 RTW Shows: Cushnie et Ochs, and Rag & Bone

We know Carly Cushnie and Michelle Ochs, of Cushnie et Ochs, excel at creating sexy skin-tight, angular cut-out dresses. They've created a renowned signature based on these detailed dresses, celebrities - Selena Gomez, Katie Couric, Eva Longoria - and even the First Lady have been a fan of. They seek ways to take sexiness to a new modern level, but they may now be getting tired of people portraying them as the simple 'sexy cut-out dress' brand. 

It was not so much the case anymore as we saw at their new Spring 2014 presentation. They stepped into newer territories that haven't been particularly familiar to the brand, but were invigoratingly sexy and lustrous to watch. 

Their new collection derived from 'straight jackets and strapping details,' as the designers pointed out. "Lots of belting, binding, and slices of skin," were more than enough to see the designers taking details to another chapter in the brand. Karlie Kloss opened the show with a white skin-exposed (waist and upper shoulder) dress strapped by elastic that referenced to those hems in jacket. Seamless knitwear pieces made a strong entrance here. It was interesting to also have seen them put a noteworthy effort in their pants. It showed everyone they too are capable of making a great white crispy-ribbed pant look sexy in all its form; another favorite was a black buckled detailed pant. Prints made a second appearance that also put them on the spotlight of innovation. And their expansion of sexy one-piece (one white buckled detailed piece was everything), and two-piece swimsuits were another big score for the duo. 

Other fabrics - sheer, snakeskin, and silk - expanded the choice of their signature viscose fabric. It was just not about sexy, exposed body-hugging silhouettes anymore, but refined sensuality. Colors - white, gray, light brown, purple, and black - may still have been of few color palettes, but felt high-end designer without a doubt. If the designers were taking new action into their label, and judging from this collection, one can't disagree they're going along the right path to a bigger success. Can we pre-order now?

Rag & Bone designers, David Neville and Marcus Wainwright, seemed to have shifted their tomboy signature looks into a more feminine yet youthful approach. The brand has been popular among young teenagers for quite a while, but not as much amongst editors and fashion critics. At this point of their career, the designers know who their main clients are, and it was obvious who their Spring 2014 womenswear collection was made for.

The new collection had way more feminine pastel colors that could be a sensation next season - peach, turquoise, crisp whites, lavender, pink - and of course, black. It was interesting to have seen them take on more silky and flow-y fabrics that looked cool as the models walked down the runway. Last season (fall 2013), the duo took the crown with their menswear inspired fabrics, which was an easy task, given that the designers English tailoring techniques make up part of their label. This season though was more about relaxed tailoring, but kinky, when it came to those cropped leather tops, dropped v-neck sweaters, sheer polos, and spaghetti strap slip-dresses. And when it came to their slouchy-fitted colored pants and blazers, you know  a number of young girls would die for one of these.

Jason Wu's Spring 2014 Feminine Approach to Easy Glamour

Jason Wu is no longer a 23 year-old fashion designer who designed for young girls back in his days. His grown, and so has his label - matured in a very beautiful and empowering feminine manner. It all started with cute designs, then luxury aesthetics, edgy tailored pieces, provocation (who can't remember his Spring 2013 one), and last season he tried to give us his "most mature and Extreme Femininity" collection. He's always looking for ways to intertwine real femininity - sensuality, authority, delicacy, sophistication - with his luxurious silhouettes; it'd make sense why First Lady, Michelle Obama, had chosen Mr. Wu twice to wear his designs for such special occasions. And for his new Spring 2014 collection, the designer embarked on another triumphant journey of the female silhouette.......making relaxed daywear tailoring feel as glamorous and easy as life should be.

He wanted to create "a dialogue between construction and ease," and it most certainly was present here. The collection emphasized much more on daywear - strong jumpsuits, safari vests in chiffon that only covered certain body parts with its pockets, trench coats paired with lace corsets on back for structure, an intricate biker jacket, knitwear tops, and sleeveless suit jackets - without loosing Wu's signature. He even included one swimsuit and kaftans paired with see-through lingerie laced details. Lacing was his sensuality etched in other jackets and dresses, like one white strapless piece. His constructed shorts and pants were noteworthy of an order, making every look seem effortlessly well put together.

What took away the show here though were his sumptuous metallic embroidered numbers of chiffon dresses - halter neck and spaghetti straps - that came in various colors (gold, light green, light gray, white, blue, and black). They may have been the most relaxed yet tailored dresses Mr.Wu had ever presented for a collection, but their delicate cowl-like drapery on the back transmitted luxury. These dresses were not meant to wear at night, because Wu envisioned them for daywear as did his other looks, and he may be on track of setting a trend of metallic embroidered dresses as the new must have "it" dress for casualness. I mean, who said glamour begins at night, when daytime is when you shine the most? Mr. Wu understood all that very clearly.

NYFW Spring 2014| BCBGMAXAZRIA, Richard Chai, and More

Day 1 of New York Fashion Week:

Vibe: Men's Dress Shirts Turned Dress.

The BCBGMAXAZRIA Spring 2014 "collection celebrates men's tailoring in the most feminine form," were the designers brief description of their new collection. If men's tailoring has been such a popular trend in womenswear, the duo seemed to have taken advantage of a simple white dress shirt and deconstructed it into several detailed pieces to inject into their presentation. 

The first model came out with what could have been an inspirational oversized shirt - plackets spliced, collar loosened, sleeves wrapped around waist, and a technical pleat effect - with a side patchwork of stamped florals for femininity. The rest continued on with fabric colors - white, gray, baby blue, and peach - that reminded one these dresses, skirts, or pants came from a men's dress shirt; a favorite of mine was a white cropped top designed with cuffs and pleats for a cool streetstyle moment. The designers definitely showed they took time to analyze every detail that some us may not have known was hidden in a classic men's button-down shirt.

And while men's tailoring may have been their newly developed collection, they couldn't let go of their iconic sheer dresses in beautiful palettes of floral prints that made their presence in the second half of the runway. Last season may have been about layering your sheer dresses, but this season they made sure these pieces spoke for themselves - so lighthearted, feminine, and youthful.

The new collection may have been somewhat of an easy statement for some, but you can't deny that designers, Lubov and Max Azria, have understood that details are what make a collection noteworthy of a great designer. And details here were more than enough to place an order for next season.

Vibe: Relaxed Tailoring. Fitted Biker Jackets.

Richard Chai has always had a good sense of youthful tailoring, but his Spring 2014 collection seemed to have gone to a state of freedom, soft tailoring, but very structured biker jackets. His menswear pieces  have been one of his strongest points in his collections, gathering the likes of celebrities like Jonas Brothers, Colton Haynes, Zachary Quinto, and others to wear some of his coveted menswear pieces. Womenswear had another slightly opinionated approach this time.

Some of his tailoring techniques seemed a little off with hems of pants dramatically oversized, causing a model to trip more than once while walking down the runway. His pairing of skirts over pants were somewhat kitsch to say the least. It was maybe his choice of fabrics that didn't aid him in creating what he was looking forward in his women's side; some fabrics should have been crispier in terms of relaxed tailoring. But not all was lost, because his striped tops, cropped tops (a must have), and final black looks had more of what Richard Chai was working to portray; some dresses were worth a try as well. Oh, and if anything there was to admire about his womenswear counterpart, it had to be his intricate and fitted biker jackets - in white, red, and black - young girls will be greatly pleased with.

His new menswear spring 2014 collection had everything the Richard Chai men looks forth next summer. There is always something cool about Mr.Chai that men appreciate the most. He also went for more relaxed tailoring that suited his men the best - oversized tank tops, polos, and trousers. Short shorts have been quite a trend for next season, but he kept a consistent and masculine tailoring his clients will enjoy. Outerwear pieces, like his biker jackets, were also eye catching at this runway.

It may not have been the best of the season for Richard Chai's womenswear side, but it certainly was another great season for his menswear side. Wait to see some male celebrities sitting front row today rocking his biker jackets or shorts very soon.

Vibe: A Whimsical Paradise of Beautiful Details.

Shane Gabier and Christopher Peters have had their label, Creatures of the Wind, running since 2008. It is difficult for new upcoming designers to survive in the fashion industry when you know you're competing against other much more recognizable designers that may put you as a replica. But they've managed to stay true to their brand since the beginning, introducing unique and quirky patchwork designs that have become a signature of theirs; their prints can sometimes feel very vintage though. Last season, they managed to deliver an outstanding collection with impeccable details that made them noteworthy of their brand. Their spring 2014 collection was yet another season with richer colors and DETAILS. 

The designers have really been demonstrating everyone they too can make a great top. The first model walked down the runway in a western inspired shirt jacket that could have gotten the audience at the show to purchase one right away. And what to say about the gold and silver metallic shirts that are capable to be a streetstyle sensation nowadays. It was also nice to have seen the designers tone down their whimsy patchworks and have them conservatively injected into one beautiful pink color-block trenchcoat. When it came to dresses, there was something youthful in some of their dresses - a baby pleated dress and a light brown leather color-block dress - that was surprising to see considering the designers like for a more mature audience. For those who are vintage mature lovers, you may find great skirt here, but for the wilder ones it may pass, although speaking fashion, these skirts were a must have in editorials.

For now, Creatures of the Wind seemed to have demonstrated it's meant for everyone - you have to learn how to separate clothes by piece here for your personal style - making this collection a very sellable one. You can now find a great piece of outerwear or top that is luxuriously detailed, but in order to rise to the top, their fit in skirts or pants, should be taken more attention if they'd like to reach a wider audience of all ages. But aside from that very small complaint, the rest was to indulge in a collection that "is about the perfect land, and imagined paradise."