Part 1 of 2: Paris Fashion Week is Full of Excitement

PART 1: A Review of Kenzo, Chloé, Céline, and Givenchy Spring 2014 Collections.

From Left: A wine embroidered draped dress from Givenchy SS14; an olive pleated dress from Chloe; and the back of Celine blue pleated top

Paris Fashion Week is about to end, but that hasn’t stop Paris from showcasing some of the top labels from the fashion industry. Some made a very surprising presentation like at Celine with its giant strokes of art tailoring and Givenchy in its number of intense draped jersey dresses, while others kept their lines luxe commercial like at Chloe’s modern fabrics , Stella McCartney’s intriguing sporty silhouettes, and Elie Saab’s injection of lace that would look great from daywear to evening. Saint Laurent also infused its bias grunge aesthetics into metallics, deep v-cut colored dresses, and of course black leather looks. And all this happened in only two days that explains why Paris is still the center of Fashion. 

Kenzo has turned its logomania items – tiger sweatshirts, blankets, hats – and prints into iconic items anyone can afford to wear and look cool. If it weren’t for those sweatshirts, I believe I probably wouldn’t have been intrigued to seeing their progress or writing about this label. Or it’s probably ever since designers Humberto Leon and Carol Lim were appointed creative directors to the house that have turned Kenzo into a pocket friendly and desirable brand among teenagers. You won’t leave a Kenzo show without being submerged into an overwhelming amount of prints that while it may not work for critics it sure does turn the switch for its younger audience. Humberto and Carl know their marketing skills very well, because if an eye design can sell pretty well, I bet their new series of melting-fish and scribbled waves – in blue, pink, and red – will be swept away and turned into the next street style moment. New were few outfits designed with patches of thick contrasting strips.

Chloé may have also demonstrated to be one of the most effortless and chic girls when it came to true casualwear at its spring 2014 collection Sunday morning. We already know Chloé is one of the labels girls trust when on a busy daywear schedule. You don’t want to look overly dressed, but neither too casual. And over the time, the lovely balance between a boyish rigor and feminine fabric that has become the signature of the brand seems to be shifting around into only relaxed feminine appeal with the exception of its cool cropped trousers. Creative director, Clare Waight Keller, was thinking about modernity – giving clothes and effortless look with more movement through lighter fabrics.

She played around with fabric and proportional details that added a mighty brisk to the new collection – lightweight chiffon dresses that were made to wear for any woman (no ultra-revealing transparency that would require someone to add another slip-dress underneath); super-chic georgette tops and jacquard looks; rough lace dresses; and edgy pleated designs that gave a great amount of texture and attitude to the clothes. Ms. Keller exceled at introducing her vision of a new Chloé without forgetting the boyish swirl Chloé has been so fond of in very thoughtful olives, whites, blues, and black paired with casual sandals. And a small dose of pale pink to brighten things up.

At Céline, Phoebe Philo gave her clothes another different type of movement through her asymmetrical number of pleated skirts painted with gorgeous brushes of strokes over effortless pieces of tailored T-shirts and tank tops that were artwork. What were more intriguing is how she played exquisitely well with colorful pleated tops taken from knits.

 This collection was the most surprising and one of the best to date so far from Philo. She took art and she referenced it perfectly on her designs. Art is a form of movement, freedom, and a state of mind. These clothes were powerful for the woman who knows how to wear them - especially her number of artistic coats with opening gold circles etched on them and graphic buckets of paints spilled on some. They’ll be a hit next season together with her creative selection of shoes and handbags. 

Riccardo Tisci's Givenchy also surprised everyone with his more mature take on draping. Everyone knows who Tisci is now: the guy who hangs around with Kanye West and designs one of the best graphic t-shirts and sweatshirts according to his young clientele.  He knows that’s what sells the most, and prices them at very high values. Whether a lot of work goes into an ordinary black “Pervert” t-shirt or not, he knows it’ll sell at any price he stamps on it. 

This time he let go of those graphic statements and put his work on draping these dresses in several different manners. It felt like watching an advanced draping segment video lesson; they somehow felt awkwardly delicate. His final pleated ones in metallic embroidery and sequins were the ones that were eye catching. Tisci really did push the boundaries here without letting go of his signature dark atmosphere. His spring 2013 collection didn’t work, but this succeeded. 
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Continue Reading more -->Part 2 of 2: A Continuation of Commercial Paris Collection

The Best of Fall 2013 Ad Campaigns

Kenzo Fall/Winter 2013 Campaign

Most Fall/Winter 2013 Ad Campaigns have been released by now, and by most we mean we're still waiting for Gucci to close the deal. Yes, it's still July, but if you think about it, fall season is just around the corner. You'd have to agree that a great amount of campaigns have really put some effort into making one of the best advertisements this season. Some may be quirky cool, provocative, thoughtful, or controversial like Saint Laurent has been. 

Whether you love a certain campaign or not, the whole point of these campaigns are to captivate people's attention for a minimum amount of seconds. It only takes about two seconds to have someone take some time to turn around and pause to see an ad. This is why it comes to my conclusion that the following ads below and above are one of the best of the season. Being familiar with the brand's collection doesn't have to be tough homework, because a striking ad is all it takes to have you searching for that brand. 

Kenzo Fall/Winter 2013 Campaign

In a short summary, Kenzo deserves an applause for its numerous outstanding campaigns. Its Fall 2013 campaign will probably have a wider audience searching for what the brand sells, and overall purchasing the item. In fashion, their collection may not have been the best of the season, but it will surely cause another street style sensation with their most recent technique of advertisements. As a customer, I felt somehow compelled to purchase those shoes the cat was in; they felt luxurious and cool. And about their other awkward semi-dissection ad, we have to say it does grab your attention.

What do you think about the rest of the Fall/Winter 2013 Ad Campaigns?

Miu Miu Fall/Winter 2013 Campaign

Miu Miu went for a provocative (lusty) ad that was set on a boat. Doesn't this sound like the perfect setting to provoke sensuality with models Adriana Lima and Emily DiDonato above? 

Michael Kors Fall/Winter 2013 Campaign

Michael Kors seems to have focus on delivering a much more sophisticated campaign over the past few seasons. We know Michael Kors is a traveler, but we want to see where his collection will take us each season. Karmen Pedaru and Simon Nessman have turned to be the perfect couple to take us on their adventures. This season, it seems Kors' was portraying a tough military influence with class. Pedaru's black and white coat number sold us. If you thought the coat may have looked kitsch, think again.

Fendi Fall/Winter 2013 Campaign

Fendi took us to a very high building surface in their Fall 2013 campaign. It may be too overt (editorial vibe), but Saskia de Brauw is sure looking high-end in that fur coat. The campaign could even quality to have it framed in your salon.

Kate Moss in Versace's Fall/Winter 2013 Campaign

Versace without a doubt hit a high note with their Fall 2013 campaign. Who wouldn't want to pause to see Kate Moss naked covered with only Versace's yellow fur coat? Or see her making us want to purchase those colorful handbags? Let's just say this may go on our wall of iconic supermodels who can sell anything easily. 

Gisele Bundchen in Louis Vuitton's Fall/Winter 2013 Campaign

Louis Vuitton had no other than Gisele Bundchen and an extraordinary selection of more supermodels pose for its new Fall 2013 campaign. Just as the collection implied, it wouldn't be surprising that the setting took place at a hotel. It was a romantic intimacy with supermodels that felt alluring.

Jil Sander Fall/Winter 2013 Campaign

Jil Sander likes to keep things minimal, and that was how her Fall 2013 campaign felt. There was only something about the wind blowing the model's hair and high-collared leather coat that was mind thoughtful and relaxing if you think about it. 

Tom Ford Fall/Winter 2013 Campaign

Tom Ford is the symbol of sexuality. This would be why his campaigns always portray a strong sex appeal in them, which is what his fall 2013 campaign had in them. As stated in one post, Mr. Ford knows who he is marketing to here: a woman who wants high luxury made sexy. (See more pictures here).

Donna Karan Fall/Winter 2013 Campaign

Donna Karan fall 2013 campaign was about capturing an intimate relation between an artist and his muse. The campaign doesn't need much explaining after this, because there is clearly something steamy going on between these two models. (See more pictures here). 

Also, take a look at Givenchy's Fall 2013 Campaign with actress, Amanda Seyfried here. 

Paris Fashion Week 2014: Dior, Hermes, Kenzo, and More

Day 4 of 5 Paris Men's Fashion Week

Vibe: Doing Business at the Beach.

"Just think how you negotiate wearing a tuxedo on a beach," were part of Kris Van Assche's description for Dior Homme Spring 2014 menswear collection. "It's formality and informality: choice, chance, and lightness."

Making a color choice was very straightforward here. Red wine, blue, light gray, and black were the only options. Most of the collection became a repetition of either looks in shorts or slim trousers, suits or vests, and in either subtler leather patchworks, that made one reflect what could have been the perfect outfit to go on a negotiation. But what if you were to rewind back to the beginning of the collection and take a closer look at each individual outfit that could have appeared identical for a few seconds? Notice, the chance of choosing the same identical outfit could have just become quite difficult and interesting to think about. It was those small uncommon details that Dior has always been perfect and successful at making one ponder what is the difference about these two?

Van Assche elaborated his suits in two tones of colors, such as a red wine suit with a black lining pictured above, to just matching silk linings. He made his other lightly tailored suits look unique with either straight or diagonal pockets, whilst his leather patchwork techniques were etched in various positions; the best in the collection. It was his idea of dressing up for a sunny negotiation that most likely motivated him to present silhouettes that felt quite comfortable and relaxed with glossy T-shirts under suits or jackets; his leather numbers were somewhat edgy for the Dior man. It seems Van Assche's minimalistic details for the Dior Homme brand will make it a favorite amongst many in menswear that will never turn into a weary presentation.

Vibe: Humble Luxury.

Who would've imagined the Hermès guy would be the one to wear a $99,000 light crocodile t-shirt that didn't have much to say if you saw him wearing it? That has been Veronique Nichanian's long term goal under the brand, which is one of the world's most recognizable luxury brands. Making luxury look so easy on the eye is a mastering skill Nichanian has obtained with perfection. The touch and feel of her fabric is another magical journey towards real luxury.

It could be rare to declare that the Hermes menswear line has had such a higher reputation than its womenswear counterpart. Mrs. Nichanian and Mr. Christophe Lemaire (womenswear designer) both understand that travel is the soul that holds Hermes together, but Mrs. Nichanian with no doubt knows hot to describe it with a much more clearer perspective: a man who travels with pure luxury at an effortless state of mind. 

She opened her spring 2014 menswear show with a pair of great slim-fitted pants done in the finest cotton material, a pleasantly tailored navy suit, signature print button-down dress shirt and tie, and a navy crocodile belt piece. It was her other looks of simplicity - t-shirts with buttons on shoulders, scoop-neck tank tops, and exquisitely light printed polka dot pants - that deserved a stand innovation. 

Leather couldn't be left off in here. Her baby lambskin leather pants looked as breezy as a pair of cotton pants, while her outerwear jackets were yet another triumphant season for the brand. She added one specific high-tech jacket that changed from a leather suede to a its natural lambskin leather fabric; it was done so well it appeared the fabrics weren't event stitched together. She seemed to have shifted from her most talked about crocodile t-shirt, and instead opted to go for what seemed to be a python long sleeve light gray sweatshirt; a sumptuous choice of fabric that looked splendid for the brand. 

Vibe: Paris Boys in L.A.

Kenzo can be mostly recognized for its iconic tiger print logo sweaters from its spring 2013 collection, which have had an outstanding street style success over the past season. It revived the brand to become a huge target amongst young teenagers who were eager to know who designed those super cool sweaters. Humberto Leon and Carol Lim were thinking about how Parisian boys would look like traveling to L.A. Their color-block suits did imbue a California sensation that came in very relaxed silhouettes boys in L.A. would wear. The only difference is that Kenzo's version of L.A. would come with a dose of Parisian luxury. Shirt sleeve scribbled printed shirts and sweaters were pleasing to watch, and could become another potential success for the developing brand. Lean and Lim are still in works of finding the correct niche that could lead Kenzo to a greater height in fashion. So far, its cool artistic-ly sweaters have proven to be a beginning signature for the label.

Vibe: Sporty-Couture.

Alexis Mabille has a tendency to be a little to heavy in his menswear collections. They are of a high-luxe art, but his designs are best appreciating as a work of art, then wearing them. He may have understood by now that men's wear clothes differs greatly from womenswear. His last three collections have shown a much more casual vibe done in the Mabille manner: adding special doses of sportswear injected with couture. 

His spring 2014 men's wear collection felt even more communicating to a broader audience. He went with high stitched scoop-neck tank tops that looked appealing with his very fitted navy and olive pants, etched with white linings around pockets, yoke, and a braided leather finished on the back of a pocket for a couture quality. Shirts came with epaulets finished on the sides. One hybrid piece was a mixture between a suit and a sweatshirt that was noteworthy for the new Mabille man. Sweaters printed with the phrase, "Tonight I wear Mabille so let's set the world on fire I can burn brighter than the sun," had an urban quality. His last look, pictured above in a short black suit and crisp white detailed shirt was that of the modern Mabille, but much more toned down. 

Vibe: The Classic Denim Staple.

A.P.C. (Atelier de Production et de Création) has been around since 1987. The brand has established itself as a leader in easy to wear cool urban menswear pieces at fairly luxe prices. Their jeans are what have gained them a higher reputation in menswear for making one of the best well made jeans that are sure to last. Purchasing knitwear and outwear from this brand is a decision well made. They are always on the hunt for making a new collection that will always become a cool classical wardrobe staple to any of your looks. 

Their new spring 2014 men's wear collection is yet to be another favorite amongst the many who appreciate the craftsmanship A.P.C. does finely. One camel colored suede jacket was the seasons must add to your next wardrobe staple. 

Vibe: The Dapper Airport Arrival.

Alexandre Mattiussi of AMI had in mind an airport arrival from a vacation. His men - young, businesslike, and adventurous - were the main focus for his new spring 2014 men's wear collection. He added fun the way he believed a man should arrive from an airport. But what was more captivating was the choice of tailoring that made everything much more gratifying then from previous seasons. 

He added camouflage and floral prints, stripes that looked fresh on a pair of trousers, Prince of Wales check suits that were paired with much more tailored shirts or cool knitted sweaters, pleasing denim numbers, and layering techniques that made the AMI guy compelling to watch arrive from an airport. We wish arrivals were this well put together in reality.