New York Fashion Week may be one of the most stressful and crowded weeks for everyone. Not because of the 300 or more shows that are presented in one week, but because men’s and women’s collections interact between each other in that same week. Especially when your goal is to talk about them both. It’s really not a cheerful journey, but either way I managed to summarize together some of the menswear spring 2014 shows presented at New York that are worth a look for next season.
There is always something juvenile yet well put together about DKNY that attracts young customers. It’s not the “it brand’ you want to invest entirely in, but on the other hand it does do the work of looking like a cool dude when you need to. Dude just sounds like the adequate word to use here.
Take for example that bright red anorak that looked great with DKNY’s new graphic robot t-shirt, slim fitted pants, and black and white lace-ups. T-shirts had a nice appeal young guys would look forth in. I personally found interesting they could take something casually tailored, like combining a pair of shorts and blazer with t-shirts, and applying it to their clean silhouettes of formalwear attire when those important occasions are called for. Basic colors – red, yellow, white, gray, and blue – had potential amongst its young clientele of dudes.
When I first came across the Todd Snyder label, J.Crew was the first thing that came to mind. I began researching who this new Todd Snyder was and guess what I happened to find out? Mr. Snyder actually used to work not just for J.Crew but Ralph Lauren. Interesting environments, huh? I wouldn’t want to compare this brand with a mixture between vintage Ralph and J.Crew, but that’s how it feels. You can just tell there are several similarities that connect this designer with a little twist of American/preppy.
There were great pieces to indulge in next summer. Exquisitely slim-fitted shorts and pants (a navy windowpane pant was one of the best), nicely fitted blazers, noteworthy shirts, slender rain coats in khaki, blue, and gray, a soft dark brown cashmere cardigan, and two badass baseball jackets in burgundy and camel. The brand itself has been around since 2011 (a newbie still), but with an experienced designer who knows what competition is like, this collection felt much more confident and mature compared to his previous ones. It’s growing, and in a good way.
Tim Coppens is also another designer who has gotten comfortable with his menswear brand. A Formula-1 inspired collection was his new approach. And it felt necessary to include some quite pleasing onesies designer’s seem to be going for next season. These were the “it” pieces, like his opening look in a metallic silver and black leather detailed ones, the outgoing cool guys wouldn’t mind wearing. Who would’ve thought a New York designer would have a special onesie too?
While most looks seemed to have been made for a chilly weather – splendid graphic sweaters etched with leather, baseball jackets, and parkas – nothing was as intricate as his metallic and leather shorts. Leather played the protagonist here though and energetically.
Michael Bastian may be one of the most innovative designers in New York when it comes to taking risks in men’s fashion, but it didn’t quite work this time. Sure, his clothes are fun to wear, but it may have been the layering effects that went on in his new presentation that could have lost you for a second. Are we in wannabe Paris? It is no secret Parisians know how to do layering effortlessly, but Mr. Bastian is not quite there; nice try for willing to incorporate more prints though. But if you were to take those awkward layering’s apart and styled it with something else, you could find something to invest in.
I don’t know about the French wearing pineapple or leopard print pants, but one thing for sure is I know of several guys in America who would go for it without a doubt. As for his graphic sweatshirts and jackets, they felt fresh for this collection. All in a nutshell, this was an American tourist in Paris with lots of joy and uniqueness. Isn’t that what traveling is all about?
Ovadia & Sons is just another menswear label who recently got the opportunity to debut their new collection at New York Fashion Week. And what a debut. The label has been around since 2010 and owned by twin brothers, Shimon and Ariel Ovadia. One could tell these twins definitely have a unique taste compared to our loved hyper twins, Dean and Dan, at Dsquared2. And I’m not saying the Dsquared2 twins don’t design well, because you know they can put a fun spin to their clothes, but what I may be trying to infer is that twins may seem to get the job done efficiently.
The Ovadia twins have been receiving a lot of support from retailers – Bloomingdale’s, Barneys, Brooks Brothers – and magazines like GQ who named them Best New Menswear Designers in America in 2012. That being said, they were part of this year’s CFDA Fashion Fund finalist.
The collection is headed along the right path. Slim tailored pants without feeling too tight. They have just the right amount of proportion for most men who seek sleek silhouettes without having to suffer. A niche? I loved the styling of three floral print numbers – a black shirt, and two blue pants and shorts – that wasn’t too much in your face. Most fashion-forward men could deal with that. Suits were clean and suede motorcycle jackets were fresh. Now, if the twins caused a good impression, we know they better make another great one and with innovation, which it seems they might if they’re getting a lot of support. Because as Hedi Klum used to say, “One day you’re in, and the next day you’re out.”
Modern. Urban. Timeless. That’s what Frank Muytjens new collection for J.Crew imbued. While those blue printed shorts may have been the only new design in a while at J.Crew, there was something that even though we’ve seen other retailers and designers produce in much more sumptuous techniques – slim-fitted suits and trousers, chambray sweats, suede bomber jackets, and denim patchwork – none the less felt luxe here. It may be witchcraft going on behind this label, because it somehow works great compared to other luxury designers we’ll criticize harshly. Hmm.
At Marc by Marc Jacobs you could put a personality to each outfit. Mr. Jacobs likes to feel his sharing a bit of his brand with everyone – quirky, preppy, gothic, urban, fashion-forward. It all looked inviting with metallic jackets in silver and red, relaxed shirts, trousers, and suits – cream, baby blue, brown, and black. Anyway you style them it’ll work.
Day 5 of 5 Paris Men's Fashion Week
Vibe: The Dark Rock n' Roll.
Hedi Slimane created quite a controversy ever since he decided to changed the phase of the new Saint Laurent spirit. His first two shows felt like a huge slap from many fashion critics who couldn't bare to see how Saint Laurent would turn into a horrendous rock inspired label. It only took a season when his collection was finally available in most retailers, that most of us understood Mr. Slimane was in fact selling pure luxury; it has now become a big sensation amongst its young rebellious audience.
Slimane seemed more confident of himself for his new Saint Laurent spring 2014 menswear collection. This collection felt way more appealing than his first menswear debut for the label. It was obvious we were to expect another sort of California rock theme fulfilled with lots of black leather, skinny boys, and surprisingly a more relaxed tune. Perhaps it could have been that by know one should be very well acquainted of what the Slimane is focusing on: having a voice towards its youthful audience who want the taste of that rock clean luxury. No need for more drama.
He introduced a series of mesh shirts, polka dot dress shirts, and exquisitely tailored skinny trousers which could have been perfectly appealing on an average model. His suits - leopard prints, checked-windowpanes, and gold sequins - were just a few pleasing noteworthy numbers, whilst his outerwear designs, such as one silver varsity jacket, could become a great hit next season.
On an average perspective, Slimane's decision to letting very skinny boys wear his clothes on the runway, brings down the collecting quite a bit. They say that first impression is what counts, and his skinny guys are the unappealing impression. But once viewed on a well fitted model, it is unbelievable how powerful Saint Laurent still remains after all the changes. His sharp tailoring lets the clothes speak for themselves. It is as if Slimane enjoys playing with our minds. One day we could say the collection was terrible, and the next day we see a famous star porting Saint Laurent's clothes or accessories, you can find us searching for that piece to incorporate into our wardrobe.
Today, Saint Laurent is one of the go to brands for the bad girl/boy who wants to set a statement in those black leather numbers that have become the signature of the new brand. His motorcycle jackets are the most coveted designer ones; a classic now as stated in their description. The only difference about being a bad Saint Laurent girl/boy is having the necessary amount of money to satisfy ones need, because prices for these babies - a jacket retailing at $5,900 - fits more the spoiling brat who doesn't give a hell how the economy is right now.
Vibe: Strong Silhouettes.
While many men's wear designers were going for strong floral prints, Lanvin went with not a single dose of print. Instead they focused on their tough relaxed tailoring, which made this collection one of the strongest presentations of paris men's spring 2014 fashion week.
Alber Elbaz and Lucas Ossendrijver went with a number of matching rich silk pants (pajama-like) and t-shirts that were a stand innovation for the duo. Their was something in their style that imbued an urban masculine appeal most men could favor. Being pure silk the choice of fabric that could lean towards femininity, there was none of that feminine l'air in these looks. Suits - less strictly tailored - were actually pleasing to see coming from Lanvin. Perhaps their precise choice of fabric and color is what made them one of the best relaxed silhouettes compared to other brands; so mesmerizing.
Texture was replaced for prints. It was intriguing to see a pair of trousers (pictured right above) with such a luxurious texture you could easily feel when zoomed closer. At far they could have been perceived as a fading print, but they were actually a living print just as were their glossy sweatshirts and tank tops. It seems Lanvin came with a stronger force of authority in men's fashion this season, which we hope continues on to next season so triumphantly.
Vibe: A Joyful Life of Living Colors.
Color is the living DNA of the Paul Smith man. Tailoring is also what makes his colors more refreshening to watch. And the injection of youthfulness in his designs finish describing who is the Paul Smith guy. To say the least, his spring 2014 menswear collection was enough to understand the brand without too much fashion vocabulary: easy and joyfully stylish.
His suits, slim-ly tailored with insects of different colors on hems of sleeves and suits, were quite pleasing to see, but maybe not so gratifying to see on his color-block trousers. They weren't poorly made by no means, but there was something missing to them; just blah. If some his outerwear jackets could have had less zippers and more emphasis in construction, they would have been the perfect ones to wear. There was one navy and white checked blouson that made a nice intro.
What were noteworthy were his colorful sweaters and short-sleeve shirts. In conclusion it seems there will always be four things we will always be fond to see Mr. Paul Smith design exquisitely: a great suit jacket; a pair of great tailored trousers with no color-block or prints; an outstanding casual or dress shirt with or without youthful prints; and a delightful sweater that will never be out of style no matter what season were in.
Day 4 of 5 Paris Men's Fashion Week
Vibe: Doing Business at the Beach.
"Just think how you negotiate wearing a tuxedo on a beach," were part of Kris Van Assche's description for Dior Homme Spring 2014 menswear collection. "It's formality and informality: choice, chance, and lightness."
Making a color choice was very straightforward here. Red wine, blue, light gray, and black were the only options. Most of the collection became a repetition of either looks in shorts or slim trousers, suits or vests, and in either subtler leather patchworks, that made one reflect what could have been the perfect outfit to go on a negotiation. But what if you were to rewind back to the beginning of the collection and take a closer look at each individual outfit that could have appeared identical for a few seconds? Notice, the chance of choosing the same identical outfit could have just become quite difficult and interesting to think about. It was those small uncommon details that Dior has always been perfect and successful at making one ponder what is the difference about these two?
Van Assche elaborated his suits in two tones of colors, such as a red wine suit with a black lining pictured above, to just matching silk linings. He made his other lightly tailored suits look unique with either straight or diagonal pockets, whilst his leather patchwork techniques were etched in various positions; the best in the collection. It was his idea of dressing up for a sunny negotiation that most likely motivated him to present silhouettes that felt quite comfortable and relaxed with glossy T-shirts under suits or jackets; his leather numbers were somewhat edgy for the Dior man. It seems Van Assche's minimalistic details for the Dior Homme brand will make it a favorite amongst many in menswear that will never turn into a weary presentation.
Vibe: Humble Luxury.
Who would've imagined the Hermès guy would be the one to wear a $99,000 light crocodile t-shirt that didn't have much to say if you saw him wearing it? That has been Veronique Nichanian's long term goal under the brand, which is one of the world's most recognizable luxury brands. Making luxury look so easy on the eye is a mastering skill Nichanian has obtained with perfection. The touch and feel of her fabric is another magical journey towards real luxury.
It could be rare to declare that the Hermes menswear line has had such a higher reputation than its womenswear counterpart. Mrs. Nichanian and Mr. Christophe Lemaire (womenswear designer) both understand that travel is the soul that holds Hermes together, but Mrs. Nichanian with no doubt knows hot to describe it with a much more clearer perspective: a man who travels with pure luxury at an effortless state of mind.
She opened her spring 2014 menswear show with a pair of great slim-fitted pants done in the finest cotton material, a pleasantly tailored navy suit, signature print button-down dress shirt and tie, and a navy crocodile belt piece. It was her other looks of simplicity - t-shirts with buttons on shoulders, scoop-neck tank tops, and exquisitely light printed polka dot pants - that deserved a stand innovation.
Leather couldn't be left off in here. Her baby lambskin leather pants looked as breezy as a pair of cotton pants, while her outerwear jackets were yet another triumphant season for the brand. She added one specific high-tech jacket that changed from a leather suede to a its natural lambskin leather fabric; it was done so well it appeared the fabrics weren't event stitched together. She seemed to have shifted from her most talked about crocodile t-shirt, and instead opted to go for what seemed to be a python long sleeve light gray sweatshirt; a sumptuous choice of fabric that looked splendid for the brand.
Vibe: Paris Boys in L.A.
Kenzo can be mostly recognized for its iconic tiger print logo sweaters from its spring 2013 collection, which have had an outstanding street style success over the past season. It revived the brand to become a huge target amongst young teenagers who were eager to know who designed those super cool sweaters. Humberto Leon and Carol Lim were thinking about how Parisian boys would look like traveling to L.A. Their color-block suits did imbue a California sensation that came in very relaxed silhouettes boys in L.A. would wear. The only difference is that Kenzo's version of L.A. would come with a dose of Parisian luxury. Shirt sleeve scribbled printed shirts and sweaters were pleasing to watch, and could become another potential success for the developing brand. Lean and Lim are still in works of finding the correct niche that could lead Kenzo to a greater height in fashion. So far, its cool artistic-ly sweaters have proven to be a beginning signature for the label.
Vibe: Sporty-Couture.
Alexis Mabille has a tendency to be a little to heavy in his menswear collections. They are of a high-luxe art, but his designs are best appreciating as a work of art, then wearing them. He may have understood by now that men's wear clothes differs greatly from womenswear. His last three collections have shown a much more casual vibe done in the Mabille manner: adding special doses of sportswear injected with couture.
His spring 2014 men's wear collection felt even more communicating to a broader audience. He went with high stitched scoop-neck tank tops that looked appealing with his very fitted navy and olive pants, etched with white linings around pockets, yoke, and a braided leather finished on the back of a pocket for a couture quality. Shirts came with epaulets finished on the sides. One hybrid piece was a mixture between a suit and a sweatshirt that was noteworthy for the new Mabille man. Sweaters printed with the phrase, "Tonight I wear Mabille so let's set the world on fire I can burn brighter than the sun," had an urban quality. His last look, pictured above in a short black suit and crisp white detailed shirt was that of the modern Mabille, but much more toned down.
Vibe: The Classic Denim Staple.
A.P.C. (Atelier de Production et de Création) has been around since 1987. The brand has established itself as a leader in easy to wear cool urban menswear pieces at fairly luxe prices. Their jeans are what have gained them a higher reputation in menswear for making one of the best well made jeans that are sure to last. Purchasing knitwear and outwear from this brand is a decision well made. They are always on the hunt for making a new collection that will always become a cool classical wardrobe staple to any of your looks.
Their new spring 2014 men's wear collection is yet to be another favorite amongst the many who appreciate the craftsmanship A.P.C. does finely. One camel colored suede jacket was the seasons must add to your next wardrobe staple.
Vibe: The Dapper Airport Arrival.
Alexandre Mattiussi of AMI had in mind an airport arrival from a vacation. His men - young, businesslike, and adventurous - were the main focus for his new spring 2014 men's wear collection. He added fun the way he believed a man should arrive from an airport. But what was more captivating was the choice of tailoring that made everything much more gratifying then from previous seasons.
He added camouflage and floral prints, stripes that looked fresh on a pair of trousers, Prince of Wales check suits that were paired with much more tailored shirts or cool knitted sweaters, pleasing denim numbers, and layering techniques that made the AMI guy compelling to watch arrive from an airport. We wish arrivals were this well put together in reality.
Day 3 of 5 Paris Men's Fashion Week
Vibe: The Techno-African Nerd.
Computer nerds is what Riccardo Tisci had in mind for Givenchy's spring 2014 men's wear collection. Except he formed an African influence tribe style that is sure to create a much more massive alliance next season. Tisci doesn't have much styling to do, because he lets his intricate prints do the talking. It's an easy outfit for the Givenchy man that adds a powerful appeal to any look combined. That is perhaps why the brand has had such a successful season, because Tisci understands what men want: simple outfits with a cool amount of prints to choose from.
His prints - hard disks and computer parts - were invigoratingly vibrant and youthful compared to previous darker ones. Printed sweaters and t-shirts kept that luscious Parisian street style look that has become the main attraction of the Givenchy generation. He made his models appear athletic with his techno printed shorts matched with tight leggings. One printed parka was introduced with confidence, whilst his final looks of bolder stripes depicted the future tribe of Givenchy's attitude. At this point of his career, Riccardo Tisci has victoriously toughened up the brand, officially moving it into a very new chapter that may one day be difficult to get accustom to what was once the House of Givenchy.
Vibe: Sporty-formal.
Kris Van Assche may be one of those designers many may have rarely heard of, but have probably been familiar with his work pictured in several magazines. He likes to identify himself as the designer who mixes sportswear with suits. His spring 2014 men's wear collection may have been one of the strongest collection we had seen so far from him.
There were an incentive amount of details that depicted his sportswear movement: shirts with snap buttons, fluorescent zipper pockets, and elastic hems; parkas that were easy to style with shorts; slouchy-fitted trousers. A white dress shirt that was replaced for a zipper looked sporty-formal with a navy suit jacket and matching relaxed shorts. Another white dress shirt implied a little more formality with a printed crocodile texture effect that looked appealing with his fitted trousers; a favorite of mine. He also introduced an orange sweater, polo shirt, and shorts that had a crocodile embossed effect that appeared so realistic you had to get close enough to see it was a perfect print effect that scored high in Van Assche's collection. Sportswear and formalwear was something so great we weren't expecting from this collection.
Vibe: The Street Style Dandy.
The Berluti man is someone you would see pictured on the pages of many street style blogs. It's the combination of street, luxury, and casual formality that made the Berluti man much more interesting to watch. Alessandro Sartori did an excellent job taking the brand to the casual side of Bespoke. He presented a series of waistcoats and trousers that were cut shorter than average, giving it a unique appeal that didn't bring it down. Knitwear was noteworthy of the luxury standards that brand never fails at. What was more eye-catching were Sartori's purple numbered suits; the perfect tone of color. His leather jackets were also appropriate for the sportswear theme that has become very popular this season. And speaking of shoes, his two-tone lace-up shoes were the perfect match for this outstanding collection. It may be time to start saving up for one next season.
Day 2 of 5 Paris Men's Fashion Week
Vibe: The European Traveling Around America.
The Louis Vuitton man is an explorer who loves to travel around the world. Creative director, Kim Jones also has a devotion for traveling. It is all a perfect match to deliver an exciting and compelling collection that leaves the Vuitton man with the right clothes to travel the world with style. This season Jones' models were given the pleasure to experience the different styles of American culture that were translated to Vuitton's exquisite DNA.
He opened the show with a checked-windowpane suit that imbued a formal-preppy style with sleeves rolled up, colorful bandanas, and remarkable pins that said Vuitton. He only added two labeled varsity jackets - in caramel and red - that were a frat guy's version of luxury. Outerwear appeared quite competitive to other high-end brands. A series of inspirational scout boy outfits heightened the looks with parkas sewn with badges and elbows stitched with crocodile skin. This was not your average scout boy look. Blousons - printed in faded LV symbols - were interesting to watch, whilst his tie-dye numbers had a surpassingly expensive, tough street boy appeal that could be sure to be a great hit in menswear.
Suits were kept intact to the way a Vuitton man would like them to be; somewhat slim and fitted all together. They only thing that modified were his introduction of silver dress shoes young man are sure to emulate now. A final silk (the most expensive silk) LV jacquard suit sent a strong message across: Vuitton has become such a powerful international company in the luxury market, using its logo has an excuse to anything.
Vibe: Mystical Floral Prints.
Dries Van Noten has become quite comfortable with his mien insets of color, texture, pattern, and signature tailoring. His spring 2014 men's wear collection felt much more stronger for the Van Noten man specifically in patterns. While most designers are going for more vibrant palettes of floral prints, he being the sort of rebel he infuses in his patterns, began with darker shades of metallic flowers that later turned into intense prints.
The first model came out in a sheer floral print tank top etched with a visual number "9," vintage floral track shorts, and an usual silky overcoat - printed in ghostly faded flowers - that were present in several other looks. His new printed shirts looked confident enough to wear in the fashion world, but maybe not so much in reality. Trousers had that relaxed-fitted silhouette typical in Van Noten's design. While most of his blazers may have been somewhat tasteless, one silk jacquard floral blazer (shown above) was noteworthy.
Van Noten's floral theme was his idea of giving it a unique tough and athletic look that has been so common in men's collection this season. Another mixture of inspirations common in Van Noten. He wanted to make his prints ones that said masculinity (perhaps that explains most of its color choice), but what may be agreeable to the Dries Van Noten man, may still be slowly digesting to the average man who may be fearing for the F word next season......Fashion.
Vibe: The Ideal "Men's" Closet.
Considering Oliver Rousteing's young age for a designer (27), his work at Balmain can be said with the most absolute affirmation, is the brand Real Man dress in. And it is also the brand with the highest price tag (one button-down shirt will retail around $700), but it so convincing you'd see it as an investment. It speaks a great amount of this designer to convince a man to pay such a price on other pieces of clothes that could simply turn into a DIY. He only designs what he'd wish were available in his wardrobe, which we'd wish we had a best friend like him.
For spring 2014, Mr. Rousteing was feeling a marine lifestyle the way Balmain would do it; much more edgier. There were still Balmain's classic signature Oliver has made presence of in newer versions: quilted leather jackets, pants, and boots (impressive); angular boxy jackets and suits in white and navy; and rich hand-painted denim numbers. He offered some fresh knits in marine stripes (white and navy), which were very gratifying. A newly marine suit resembled an original one, but in a much detailed and youthful version. He included some denim overalls that made you want to rescue yours from your basement to be on trend like the Balmain man. And if you didn't find it, Rousteing could easily convince you to get yours done by Balmain; expect a higher percentage. One final look - a lustrous blue leather suit with epaulets, and an intricate skinny-fitted denim/leather patchwork pants with a marine logo and zipper hems - were an executable record to the Balmain man. Sounds too perfect to be true, but it is.
Day 1 of 5 Paris Men's Fashion Week
Vibe: The Sophistication of Military.
Ever since Valentino presented its first runway show back in fall 2012, there were pieces here and there that showed the powerful weapon the Valentino man could become. Recently, its spring 2013 military collection has been selling like hot pancakes with their camouflage sneakers being one of the most demanding shoes of the season. Fall 2013 became one of the most PERFECT collections in menswear that depicted Valentino's sartorial couture craftsmanship so beautifully. And for its new spring 2014 men's collection, Maria Grazia Chiuri and Pierpaolo Piccioli felt it was adequate to make its militant bespoke designs an official signature of the Valentino man.
The show began with a series of suits and shirt jackets beautifully split into various shades of denim that felt invigoratingly new to the brand. One blue denim parka was a stand innovation for the duo; so light and tailored. Others pieces noteworthy were their second olive and navy numbers that included a suit, coat, and parka as well. What were worth an investment were their leather shirt jackets - in burgundy, and olive - that looked so appealing with their black etched tape lining around one pocket, and epaulets that described the militant mood of the collection. Other illusional black leather tape linings followed in tan, electric blue, gray, navy, and camouflage print jackets and sweaters.
Trousers, which at far appeared to be only camouflage prints, when viewed closed enough were actually faded prints of daisies infused with its military design. Other printed trousers paired with sharp white t-shirts looked somewhat too casual (rebellious) for the Valentino man, but were intriguing to watch a new style emerge. Formalwear was by far much more of a synthesis of bespoke than a seasonal men's collection. In other words an impeccable high luxury "couture" triumph for Chiuri and Piccioli.
Vibe: Safety Pins and Urban Raincoats.
Balenciaga is still a developing brand that is perhaps less successful in its menswear division than its womenswear collections. Alexander Wang has been taking the brand in a very different route. Since been appointed creative director, he's developed a signature symbol for the house: the maillon, which is a thicker metal that resembles a safety pin. They were obvious in suits and pants, which created a sort of punk-y style to the looks. Tailoring wasn't so appreciable. He also included two dark-striped raincoats which made it confusing to understand the inspiration behind this collection. There were in fact new elements in the collection that were of Wang's influence: sleek leather black boots, knitwear, and pleasing shorts that were cut just above the knee. Wang has in fact established a good reputation to the Balenciaga woman, but there is still more work to be done in its menswear line.
Vibe: The Freedom of Simons.
Raf Simons is a show that will never leave you disappointed. Simons keenly knows how to leave you with doubt if this is what menswear will look like in the future? He uses the future to his advantage to deliver a show with high-fashion structure in fabric, design, and battle against severe masculinity. That was the shocking opening for his new spring 2014 men's collection. The first model came out in a full one-piece black outfit that resembled a shorter version of an adult onesie.
Those are Simons' influence, so NEW that a specific name for this designs didn't come to mind. The Simons shirt romper? Simons' can be better known for his fine taste in tailoring, but in this collection everything was about "freedom." His suits were more relaxed, but his pants much more skinnier to give it a special mood with those innovative sneakers. T-shirts were "the new shape of comfort," as one shirt implied. Other florescent embroidered shirts declared why Simons' is one of the best in menswear t-shirts.
There was a variety of compulsive pieces to choose from in this collection. It may just have to be viewed with a separate eye for each design. Raf Simons' menswear collection is one of the most anticipated shows in Paris Men's Fashion Week due to his unique ideas that are only available at his presentation. He introduced us to cheetah prints, floral prints, abstract art, shorts spliced deep in the sides, and much more graphical techniques. At this point of his career he should be proud of himself to say I made that men's shirt romper first. It may take time though for most men to get comfortable in a new type of skin.
Day 4 of 4 Milan Men's Fashion Week: Sporty Cool
Vibe: The Power of Blue.
Giorgio Armani seems to feel blue is the power of masculinity. You can't recall a season you won't see specifically any blue, white, or gray in Armani's menswear collection. Blue was for the most part the center of attraction, because it is the way Armani handles his designs that never makes them dull. Graphic t-shirts were interesting to see in Armani's collection.
He did in fact squeezed in small amounts of pastel colors, like one washed orange trouser with an impeccable brown laser-cut jacket that looked freshening yet classical for the Armani man. Suits weren't as compelling to see, because it is about the same construction that he delivers each season. One white dress shirt in particular - cut in an asymmetrical form with a stand-up collar (above) - felt new, even though we know assymetry is what Mr. Armani favors. Crocodile duffle bags - in white and dark blue-green - were noteworthy.
Vibe: The Jungle Lifestyle.
Dean and Dan are the go to designers for an adventurous journey. That is what Dsquared2 has always been about. In fashion the term "cool" can refer to clothes that have an appealing silhouette that could favor a younger audience. But with Dsquared2 cool is refers to what an actual young teenager would go wild for, begging his parents to give this as his Birthday present. The kid doesn't ask for much.
The Jungle was the inspiration Dsquared2 took for its men's spring 2014 collection. Baggy jeans, prints of wild jungle animals on jackets, protective boots, and joyful necklaces were just a part of this exciting collection. Their zebra print leather jacket imbued somewhat of a sexier appeal with those olive leather shorts. It was a cool kids dream. Naughty were their printed swim shorts and underwear. Formalwear also had a spice factor they can keenly elevate. A bronze tree branch print suit paired with rich black tailored pants and glossy loafers was a finale that marked the outgoing cool guy Dsquared2 is.
Vibe: The Sleek Morning Trend.
Z Zegna is like the brother of the high-class Ermenegildo Zegna, who Stefano Pilati made presence of in its spring 2014 collection. They may be brothers with the same taste of luxury house codes, but a very opposite sense of style. What Stefano Pilati made in high-end relaxed silhouettes, Paul Surridge went with high-end sporstwear silhouettes.
Surridge changed slim pants for more relaxed silhouettes that had a high silky movement that resembled track pants athletes would wear in a much more refined manner. He shifted from dress shirts to light fabric boxy t-shirts tucked under comfortable high-neck knits that looked sophisticated to say the least. There were also a number of suit "pajamas" that had nice relaxed tailoring to them. It was perhaps the color choices that aided them to feel modern. Surridge did include few pastel colors, like a rich cream bone jacket that wasn't too much for the models hairstyle theme. Thin leather bags, almost paperlike, were appropriate for the collection. In short descriptions, it felt like the closet a man would be fond of dressing as in the morning when those tiresome casualness kick in.
Day 3 of 4 Milan Men's Fashion Week: Texture Techniques.
Vibe: Youthful Luxury.
The first model came out in a full floral print t-shirt, matching leggings, and an interesting black backpack. A full astonishing ensemble. The effortless cream setting sent a vintage relaxed feel, and once the first two models walked down the runway, all became instantly clearer. Frida Giannini has recently become mother to a baby girl, who will most likely experience the luxurious life a young Gucci girl should have. Her motherhood experience may seemed to have helped transform the phase of the new Gucci man we witnessed: more youthful, delicate, and athletic.
She replaced all her button-down dress shirts for t-shirts - floral prints, yellow, light brown, blue, red - and easily appealing silk scarfs styled around suits. Too casual? Not at all. She perfectly managed to keep the Gucci guy on luxury territory. One full matching gray floral print suit had a triumphing victory to the the collection. And Gucci being an international label who is best at designing on trend luxury outerwear, utilized its sportswear mood to present a series of exquisite anoraks with various color-blocked leggings done in rich high-tech fabrics. Her other light trench coats and blousons were worth the effort. Giannini stamped yet another obsession to be included in international editorials and magazines very soon.
Vibe: Playing with your Biker Jacket.
Diesel Black Gold started off day 3 of Milan Men's fashion week with a great show. Well, maybe not as perfect, but you can't help but try on one of their jackets or denim you know have a clean cool vibe in them. The brand is always looking for new methods to keep their designs updated and desirable in todays competitive market. The presentation opened with a white biker that was finished with an additional cream detailed hem, and slouchy pants (jeans) that has become quite a trend over these past few weeks in men's spring 2014 collections. Trending were their floral brushed denim jackets that would have its Diesel guys going wild for them. They added a nice notch to the classical denim top. It was fine to see a black leather t-shirt paired with an appealing semi-stained graphic suit and skinny-slim cropped jeans.
Vibe: The Modern Dandy.
Roberto Cavalli only offered 19 looks for its new spring 2014 men's wear collection. But that's more than enough to invest in the entire collection. If you don't favor Roberto Cavalli's work, then there must be something odd in you. The king of subtle prints, who knows how do masculine embroidery superbly well, evidently kept his crown once more. The Cavalli man is one who can be identified for being outgoing, festive, a cool dandy, and knows how to appreciate the feeling of luxury. All were evident in these collection. His embroidered shirts had a very satisfying confidence men wouldn't mind wearing, whilst his silk smooth suits - especially the final one pictured in the middle - were captivating. His outerwear wasn't left behind. A brown embroidered collarless biker jacket in leather and black python sleeves were more than gratifying to have come across by.
Vibe: A Gentleman's Mermaid.
Canali is a label you can recognize it's suits by its light gray tone of stripes that can help one know who you're wearing. A crisp blue suit, sophisticatedly tailored, were noteworthy of a man who has a sharp taste of style. It was interesting to see Canali go into semi-casual looks that weren't unappealing to see. A light denim suit, pictured above, looked fresh with diminutive polka dot print trousers, a blue-striped shirt, and a white and purple polka dot tie. Mermaid prints in shorts, sweaters, and suits made of nice insets to the newly Canali man. Its trousers were much more interesting to see available come in a strong tailored palette of colors. Canali set a questionable doubt here. Conservative or youthful? Which route did the brand actually take?
Vibe: Outerwear Luxe Gear. It's necessary.
Belstaff doesn't make the most desirable outerwear you'd wear for a temporary season. They understand a man is much more adventurous, and wants to feel they've invested in a luxury piece that won't hurt him when he accidentally scratches his newly thousand dollar outerwear jacket. That has been Belstaff goals for many years. Making men feel not only protective in their jackets, but trendy. It's new spring 2014 menswear collection had a mixture of vintage and past seasonal collection incorporated back again here: iconic belted coats modernized in colors and details, newly hand-painted camouflage jackets that looked so new to the brand, brilliant orange parkas, and leather ribbed biker jacket. Creative director, Martin Cooper, included only two noteworthy sweaters - one in orange (pictured above) and light blue - that imbued a high-tech competition to other outwear designers.
Vibe: Mesh Shirts are In.
There is not much to say about Emporio Armani men's spring 2014 collection. Armani seems it will always stick to its regular house codes no matter what season. But the only thing we appreciate from him is bringing in new shades of colors in each collection. This season he went for more intense metallic colors the Armani man would enjoy wearing. His graphic t-shirts and shady suits had some pieces to be inspired by. There were asymmetrical jackets that have become the trademark of the brand. His trousers had a choice of going fitted, slim, or relaxed, which is what most men would appreciate from Armani. Shorts, such as one light gray tailored above, had a sportswear aesthetic that were convincing to watch. But his mesh fabric - in suits and shirts - reminded us of who the Armani man is: a fit contemporary city man who has little to fear about who he is.
Vibe: Keeping it Cool in the Desert.
Fendi's runway can never be disappointing to experience. I wonder how much sand it took to fill that marvelous runway to look appealing to to the new men's spring 2014 collection? Fendi demonstrated they don't only know how to play with fur. They too can deliver an exciting collection of bold textures. Innovative t-shirts have become a bigger trend in menswear, but it is the price brands have to battle to get a customer to truly buy that single t-shirt that will add a significance to anything they wear. A plain white t-shirt or a glossy faded illusional Fendi t-shirt? Fendi is the winner; t-shirts were an important part of the collection.
Texture was crisply noticeable in outwear - cracked glossy leather jackets, ostrich jackets, crinkled shorts, and knitwear sweaters. A splash of colors - burgundy, sunset orange, saffron, blue, and tan - drove the collection much higher. Even though half of Fendi's pieces were oversized or more relaxed, they couldn't be analyzed harshly; texture aided. Sneakers - graphically painted - were fresh with a relaxed gray suit, larger t-sirt, and matching trousers with hems rolled up.
Vibe: El Mariachi.
Etro can never go out of style with its upgraded paisley shirts. That is the print (paisley) that has been its signature mark ever since. For spring, Kean Etro seemed to be dedicating an homage to the Mariachi man. Pants - in studded details - resembled the gold side seams a Mariachi pant would come decorated with. Trending were its fitted color-blocked pants - the best in the collection - which reminded one of how the more casual Mariachi pant is, only done in Etro's version. The full collection of pants are sure to be a big hit for the brand next summer, and in international men's magazines. Etro's formalwear also kept the vibe going on with his exquisite embroidery details that made you want to sing a Mexican song with those vibrant sombreros. Overall, what seemed to be a Mariachi interpretation helped Etro be on the map of designers with great influence.
Day 2 of 4 Milan Fashion Week: Innovative Designs
Vibe: Sophisticated Men in Graphic Chalk Marks.
Tomais Maier doesn't need much to describe about his cool sophisticated tailoring that has progressed so rapidly at Bottega Veneta. It seems the brand has turned from being just a young teenager to a man with exquisite taste in luxury. Its spring 2014 men's collection started off fresh and powerful with gray suits - tailored so easily fitted - that shifted into a series of white-chalked outlined suits that portrayed the detailed craftsmanship that goes into making such a suit. They had an illusion, as if the lapels were really sewn it, but if you could get closer you'd see it was only a well played tailoring outline trick. His white subtle button down shirts came with black graphic chalk marks that elevated the mood.
Maier has become well acquainted in designing very gratifying sweaters that have become a trademark to the growing brand. His intense graphic selection of cardigans and sweaters scored high in this collection. While trousers were appearing to be favoring darker shades, his introduction of white and navy windowpane-checked ones were refined at Bottega's codes; sleek, luxurious, and masculine. His other knitted polo shirts and wide-sleeve shirts were special to the man who seeks to invest in an innovative top. There was one shirt who had outline of a what appeared to be the making of a biker jacket printed over it. The finale of models wearing white suits, felt more relaxed, but that didn't stop Maier from his triumph.
Vibe: Improved Snake skin and Ostrich Shorts.
There were speculations that designer, Umit Benan, would part away from the famous Trussardi leather goods brand, which he did. So in February, Gaia Trussardi, granddaughter of Dante Trussardi (founder), was appointed as creative director of the entire main line. Who else to do the job and reward them then someone from the family? Gaia is young, but her youthfulness doesn't seem to interfere with her skills, because her debut for Trussardi men's spring 2014 collection was quite a strong one.
Knitwear pieces had a rugged appeal in colors that seemed to come from the hot desert. By far, her most special items here were her shorts - crafted in leather, ostrich, and snakeskin - that couldn't be allowed to be described as "average." She managed to deliver light touches of earthy leather button-down shirts that could have a potential customer wanting several of them. Her cropped trousers, such as one in a leather snake print, were pleasing in some ways. She also thought about offering options to the client who prefers to wear a luxurious crisp white trouser paired with a super light linen shirt and jacket. One gray tank top done in leather called for next's summer to arrive. Leather or not, the collection had Trussardi's elements.
Vibe: The Color-block Ongoing Trend.
Iceberg can be mostly identified by its cool color-block designs. Its spring 2014 menswear collection couldn't let go of the brand's signature. Federico Curradi sent another great selection of fresh color-blocking designs. His focus this season seemed to be that of the zippers. There were zippers attached everywhere: across sweaters and jackets, side seams of shirts, hems of fitted trousers, pockets of white and black shorts, and shoulder sleeves of t-shirts. All added a cool factor to the the collection. His origami stitched patches of colors on sweaters felt appropriate to wear any season.
Vibe: The Future of Casual Sportswear.
"Formalwear is imbued with the efficiency and comfort of sportswear," were Massimiliano Giornetti's words towards its new spring 2014 menswear collection for Salvatore Ferragamo. It was in fact noticeable what Giornetti was trying to describe previously. Clothes felt so light. So comfortable infused with a spring of colors - light green, caramel, white, khaki, sky blue, orange, and intense blue - that sent a futuristic silhouette to how athletic guys will dress. The play of numbers stitched in tank tops, sweaters, and coats were that of what a sports guy would feel devoted towards. His shorts were crisp and somewhat casual-formal when brought with effortless colors of suits, whilst trousers had a clean cut with those folded layers between the knee. Ones to watch were Ferragamo's techno anoraks. Gladiator leather-type sandals were that of what the true casual athlete would wear. This was a collection that understood what sportswear should luxuriously appear like.
Vibe: Technology of the Sky Prints.
Calvin Klein reminded one of how the future of menswear fashion could look like in those intensely blue numbers; it may have been the hairstyle of the first few models that felt we were in another dimension. Italo Zucchelli's spring 2014 menswear collection was about the "celebration of the summer sky, and the simplicity of the summer wardrobe." The sky is blue, and blue was the color that gave life to most of the high-tech collection. Zuchelli has been a long respected designer, who understands clearly the codes of the Calvin Klein aesthetics, but over the time he has made his signature techniques much more visible. He knows how to choose the best sophisticated high-end fabrics, giving it a sharp futuristic tailoring technique that never fails to disappoint. He began with a series of tech blousons and sweaters - cut in mesh - that were paired with fluorescent wool pants that said tough boy. His cloud print sweaters and t-shirts, and two images of sunset, were sci-fi. He presented three super authentic crocodile jackets, but one baby blue crocodile vest screamed more luxury than simplicity.
Vibe: The Knitwear World.
Missoni's spring 2014 menswear runway was decorated with huge threads of yarn on each side that reminded us what we were about to experience. Angela Missoni knows her presentation is never a show without new introductions of fresh knitwear cardigans and sweaters. These are knits you really have to get close to appreciate each and every detail of how the threads of fabric are mixed to understand its luxurious price tag. They do have a very different feel compared to an average knitted one, which is why Missoni is the best at delivering its trendy pieces of knitwear. Button down shirts hand painted in brushes of blue, brown, and red added an interesting effect to them. Suits - made in Missoni's signature print - were refreshening ones, while a new blue checked suit paired with a navy t-shirt were youthful and energetic as the Missoni brand projected.
Vibe: A Quirky-Cool Tropical Vacation.
Leave it up to Miuccia Prada to make your vacation the most interesting of all. It takes time to adjust to the lifestyle Prada prefers to be: ugly-chic. But it is that ugliness that magically turns into a beautiful piece of art that has made the brand so successful over the years. And it wasn't too difficult to fall in love with these collection if you're a huge Prada fan.
The show began with a tropical print silk shirt paired with a soft tailoring suit and trousers. Most of her suits had a very relaxed silhouette, but her silk numbers - blousons, tropical shirts, and vibrant shorts - had a dominating factor you had to go back again to enjoy. It was as if Miuccia was describing the liberation of man who seeks to advance to the next level of fashion with full confidence. A salmon print blouson with a semi-drawing of a woman had a seductive power. And her knitwear pieces - cut in a smaller size - came in various phases of nature scenes that went from a joyful mood to a calm satisfying state of mind with models sprayed with water to give the show a hot summery season made with love. The atmosphere was everything to give Miuccia Prada a huge applause for her new innovative trend towards menswear fashion.
