Milan Menswear Spring 2014: Calvin Klein, Prada, and More
Day 2 of 4 Milan Fashion Week: Innovative Designs
Vibe: Sophisticated Men in Graphic Chalk Marks.
Tomais Maier doesn't need much to describe about his cool sophisticated tailoring that has progressed so rapidly at Bottega Veneta. It seems the brand has turned from being just a young teenager to a man with exquisite taste in luxury. Its spring 2014 men's collection started off fresh and powerful with gray suits - tailored so easily fitted - that shifted into a series of white-chalked outlined suits that portrayed the detailed craftsmanship that goes into making such a suit. They had an illusion, as if the lapels were really sewn it, but if you could get closer you'd see it was only a well played tailoring outline trick. His white subtle button down shirts came with black graphic chalk marks that elevated the mood.
Maier has become well acquainted in designing very gratifying sweaters that have become a trademark to the growing brand. His intense graphic selection of cardigans and sweaters scored high in this collection. While trousers were appearing to be favoring darker shades, his introduction of white and navy windowpane-checked ones were refined at Bottega's codes; sleek, luxurious, and masculine. His other knitted polo shirts and wide-sleeve shirts were special to the man who seeks to invest in an innovative top. There was one shirt who had outline of a what appeared to be the making of a biker jacket printed over it. The finale of models wearing white suits, felt more relaxed, but that didn't stop Maier from his triumph.
Vibe: Improved Snake skin and Ostrich Shorts.
There were speculations that designer, Umit Benan, would part away from the famous Trussardi leather goods brand, which he did. So in February, Gaia Trussardi, granddaughter of Dante Trussardi (founder), was appointed as creative director of the entire main line. Who else to do the job and reward them then someone from the family? Gaia is young, but her youthfulness doesn't seem to interfere with her skills, because her debut for Trussardi men's spring 2014 collection was quite a strong one.
Knitwear pieces had a rugged appeal in colors that seemed to come from the hot desert. By far, her most special items here were her shorts - crafted in leather, ostrich, and snakeskin - that couldn't be allowed to be described as "average." She managed to deliver light touches of earthy leather button-down shirts that could have a potential customer wanting several of them. Her cropped trousers, such as one in a leather snake print, were pleasing in some ways. She also thought about offering options to the client who prefers to wear a luxurious crisp white trouser paired with a super light linen shirt and jacket. One gray tank top done in leather called for next's summer to arrive. Leather or not, the collection had Trussardi's elements.
Vibe: The Color-block Ongoing Trend.
Iceberg can be mostly identified by its cool color-block designs. Its spring 2014 menswear collection couldn't let go of the brand's signature. Federico Curradi sent another great selection of fresh color-blocking designs. His focus this season seemed to be that of the zippers. There were zippers attached everywhere: across sweaters and jackets, side seams of shirts, hems of fitted trousers, pockets of white and black shorts, and shoulder sleeves of t-shirts. All added a cool factor to the the collection. His origami stitched patches of colors on sweaters felt appropriate to wear any season.
Vibe: The Future of Casual Sportswear.
"Formalwear is imbued with the efficiency and comfort of sportswear," were Massimiliano Giornetti's words towards its new spring 2014 menswear collection for Salvatore Ferragamo. It was in fact noticeable what Giornetti was trying to describe previously. Clothes felt so light. So comfortable infused with a spring of colors - light green, caramel, white, khaki, sky blue, orange, and intense blue - that sent a futuristic silhouette to how athletic guys will dress. The play of numbers stitched in tank tops, sweaters, and coats were that of what a sports guy would feel devoted towards. His shorts were crisp and somewhat casual-formal when brought with effortless colors of suits, whilst trousers had a clean cut with those folded layers between the knee. Ones to watch were Ferragamo's techno anoraks. Gladiator leather-type sandals were that of what the true casual athlete would wear. This was a collection that understood what sportswear should luxuriously appear like.
Vibe: Technology of the Sky Prints.
Calvin Klein reminded one of how the future of menswear fashion could look like in those intensely blue numbers; it may have been the hairstyle of the first few models that felt we were in another dimension. Italo Zucchelli's spring 2014 menswear collection was about the "celebration of the summer sky, and the simplicity of the summer wardrobe." The sky is blue, and blue was the color that gave life to most of the high-tech collection. Zuchelli has been a long respected designer, who understands clearly the codes of the Calvin Klein aesthetics, but over the time he has made his signature techniques much more visible. He knows how to choose the best sophisticated high-end fabrics, giving it a sharp futuristic tailoring technique that never fails to disappoint. He began with a series of tech blousons and sweaters - cut in mesh - that were paired with fluorescent wool pants that said tough boy. His cloud print sweaters and t-shirts, and two images of sunset, were sci-fi. He presented three super authentic crocodile jackets, but one baby blue crocodile vest screamed more luxury than simplicity.
Vibe: The Knitwear World.
Missoni's spring 2014 menswear runway was decorated with huge threads of yarn on each side that reminded us what we were about to experience. Angela Missoni knows her presentation is never a show without new introductions of fresh knitwear cardigans and sweaters. These are knits you really have to get close to appreciate each and every detail of how the threads of fabric are mixed to understand its luxurious price tag. They do have a very different feel compared to an average knitted one, which is why Missoni is the best at delivering its trendy pieces of knitwear. Button down shirts hand painted in brushes of blue, brown, and red added an interesting effect to them. Suits - made in Missoni's signature print - were refreshening ones, while a new blue checked suit paired with a navy t-shirt were youthful and energetic as the Missoni brand projected.
Vibe: A Quirky-Cool Tropical Vacation.
Leave it up to Miuccia Prada to make your vacation the most interesting of all. It takes time to adjust to the lifestyle Prada prefers to be: ugly-chic. But it is that ugliness that magically turns into a beautiful piece of art that has made the brand so successful over the years. And it wasn't too difficult to fall in love with these collection if you're a huge Prada fan.
The show began with a tropical print silk shirt paired with a soft tailoring suit and trousers. Most of her suits had a very relaxed silhouette, but her silk numbers - blousons, tropical shirts, and vibrant shorts - had a dominating factor you had to go back again to enjoy. It was as if Miuccia was describing the liberation of man who seeks to advance to the next level of fashion with full confidence. A salmon print blouson with a semi-drawing of a woman had a seductive power. And her knitwear pieces - cut in a smaller size - came in various phases of nature scenes that went from a joyful mood to a calm satisfying state of mind with models sprayed with water to give the show a hot summery season made with love. The atmosphere was everything to give Miuccia Prada a huge applause for her new innovative trend towards menswear fashion.