Final Days of Milan Spring 2014 Shows

A review of Giorgio Armani, Salvatore Ferragamo, Missoni, and Dolce and Gabbana Spring 2014 collections.

Milan Fashion Week came to a close yesterday with Giorgio Armani being one of the biggest shows of the day and easiest to relate to. The thing about Armani is that he has set his signature looks very high. There is something so confident and serene about his couture cuts you can tell right away who made that dress. He knows who he is and that is all that matters to succeed. While others may find his show a bit boring (or the same continuation), I’m always intrigued to see his palette of colors like subtle pale blues, pinks, and grays he showed for his new collection. Trust me, you can’t find those types of luxury colors anywhere. 

What’s more interesting is that he manages to use the same classical types of fabrics – silk, viscose, chiffon, pique, velvet and wool – and inject into them couture-cuts that are a plus; so delicate it seems they’re worth a fortune. I’ve always been a believer that a woman’s greatest investment should be owning a great pair of Armani trousers or suits, because these designs will never fail to make a great impression. Where he experiments as a designer though are in his prints which sometimes fail to do the work. Some made a nice impression like a digital floral jacket matched with a ghostly faded printed skirt. In all, we saw some of the same classical looks we’ve been familiar with but minimally modernized in some sort of ways. 

Salvatore Ferragamo will be a brand to watch for next season. Creative director, Massimiliano Giornetti, has had his ups and downs over the past few seasons, but I actually saw potential in his new spring 2014 women’s collection. For those of you who are not familiar with this prestigious label, Ferragamo was one of the most iconic names in Hollywood designing shoes for stars like Marilyn Monroe and others. And that has been the goal for Giornetti, keeping the essence of refined glamour. 

He began his show with relaxed creamy striped suits and cropped trousers paired with snakeskin bra tops, sleeveless suit dresses, and others suits cut in half to appear between a cropped top and mini skirt over pants (all detailed with small belt straps). His most talked about pieces were his skirts pleated only halfway at the sides. Some girls may love them and others may not, but his leather numbers felt buttery soft; I personally thought the first few without wraps around looked nicer. He didn’t include much of dresses this season as for he opted to go for skirts and appealing knitwear, but he did include three halter dresses, which I thought his metallic ones, like a gold pleated dress, was casual-luxe. And he may have not imbued a great glamour vibe, but where he did outdo himself was in outerwear – trenchcoats, sleek leather hoodies, blousons, and biker jackets - like his intricate snakeskin jackets that will be a dream for the edgy generation of young girls and women. 

Missoni has been one of those luxury knitwear labels I have been fond of for the past few years. But recently, the family run business seems to be taking things to another direction. Their new collection felt awkward in some ways – birds printed on knitwear, quirky fringed dresses, nature prints – that lost the spirit of the Missoni zigzag signature codes. There were some pretty pieces like their knitwear cardigans and color-block skirts and tops that were fresh. Knitwear is there supreme niche, and we’d love to see more their visible high-tech knits making a strong return soon as were present in their men’s spring 2014 collection. 

At Dolce and Gabbana there was a beautiful treasure hunt going on. Applique of floral and Greek coin dresses, gold laser-cut dresses, intricate prints of ancient ruins, lustrous embroidered dresses, souvenir accessories, and much more to indulge on. We know designers, Stefano Gabbana and Domenico Dolce, have had a hard time lately with the business of their brand, but they’ve managed to show that they deserve to be doing what they do best……………designing to create beautiful clothes and represent Italy in an honorable manner. Most Italians would be proud to have Dolce and Gabbana be a representation of what true Italian fashion is all about. I don’t know about you, but it kind of is a joy to see these designers come up with creative ideas that are marketable yet a personal collection that speaks about their beliefs and history. 

There was so much more to choose from then just the previous descriptions: sheer polka dot blouses and dresses; lacquered skirts and dresses in forest green, burgundy, and red; jacquard coats; soft furry skirts and tops; swimsuit pieces. Their fur numbers were the only thing I wasn’t fond of, but from there on, the hours of thoughts and craftsmanship that was put into this collection paid off.  These were clothes that were made to empower the balance between a delicate and powerful woman. And hopefully aid in balancing the company even more. If feels like a family when you purchase something from this brand.

Spring 2014 Milan Shows: Etro, Versace, and More

A review of Etro, Versace, and Tod's Spring 2014 collections.

Etro is best known for its signature paisley prints. Last season, prints seemed off for this label; they were just not catchy. But this season Veronica Etro was inspired by her grandmother’s country home. They say that sometimes a family run business serves best if inspiration is taken from a relative’s history, and being grandmother the subject, this collection worked very well.

Clothes were colorful, relaxed, decorated with metallic fringes that almost seemed to have referenced an oversized silk luxe scarf. Halter dresses were slightly looser worn with silver belts that looked appealing worn around the waist. I found her cropped pants paired with knits a look that would look effortless at the countryside or casual party. Her approach on prints this time was much more appealing, keeping the brands signature paisley injected into them discretely. This new collection definitely felt inviting. 

 Meanwhile, at Versace Rock badass girls were taking over the runway. The thing about a Versace woman is that she’s not afraid to express who she is. She praises her lifestyle and imbues sexiness in everything she wears. Judging from this collection, Donatella Versace knows who her clients are, because I wouldn’t think a conservative girl would want to walk around with chain medusa harnesses around her body and mesh bandanas. But at the same not everything was hardcore as the label projects.

We know Versace is very revealing, but besides those provocative harness numbers, there were other pieces that felt quite conservatively sexy (soft) for another clientele; it wasn’t as soft though when you saw those stilettos. Her first introduction of circle skirts worn with thick medusa belts felt new and sexy with denim jackets. Denim was actually her strongest niche in this collection – studded denim jackets, hook-and-eye closing skirts, shirts, and intricate pants. Girls will surely feel they rule the world next season with Versace’s pants, like one floral- leather lace pant worn with a Versace 2014 metallic sleeve t-shirt I feel most of us may be seeing it around streetstyle blogs. Printed patterns, metallic (like a lavender look that you could tell right away you were at Versace), leather, and lace dresses were nice to see coming next season. 

It was delighting to see Ms. Versace do something that looked easy on the eye and humbly sexy without too much drama; her menswear collection was also splendid. Just seeing her take her applause for this past two shows projected much happiness in her, and I like the new path this label is taking under her most personal admirations.

Tod’s recently debuted is first fashion show under new creative director, Alessandra Facchinetti; she used to design for Valentino and Gucci back in the day. If I could describe her new collection in one word, it’ll be PERFECTION. Milan has a new star, and it can be found at Tod’s. 

This is what real women want. Italians seems to struggle to portray a collection a woman would be able to wear on a daily basis. Most women would greatly appreciate if they could make designer clothes part of their lifestyle. And Facchinetti received that message and transformed it into one women across the nation will go bananas over……….Casual with a great hint of luxury.

She made leather look paper thin buttery and wearable for summer in burgundy, gray, and pale pink colors; no stiffness what so ever. Shirtdresses detailed with a gather across the back looked sumptuous with those belts. Shorts, skirts, suits and relaxed pants caught everyone’s attention. That baby blue number was a dream in heaven paired with exquisite leather sandals; it was an impeccable tailoring. White eyelet button-down shirts and jackets were also freaking fascinating. The only thing I did not understand was those head pieces two models wore, but who cares, because all 29 looks of clothes and shoes is what women will be pleased to wear. Who knew an accessories brand could be so captivating.

Fendi and Prada Spring 2014 Collections: A Beauty of Art and Technology

A review of Fendi and Prada Spring 2014 Collections. 

From Left: Graphic Prada coat and yellow bejeweled shoes; Fendi spring 2014 laser-cut fur top and plastic organza heels.

You know where Karl Lagerfeld goes it’ll always make a great impression. That’s how it was at Fendi’s new spring 2014 collection. You have to respect what Mr. Lagerfeld does, because someone like him has to have a lot of creativity and think fast at the same time. Two weeks from today he’ll be presenting his Chanel show, but we never get a clue what to expect at his other show (unlike Marc Jacobs which you kind of know what to expect at Louis Vuitton). Fendi and Chanel may be done by the same designer, but they definitely have a different taste. Mr. Lagerfeld is a lover of organza – something you won’t see much at Chanel – but given he was at Fendi that was what he showed us.

I never feel intrigued by the way other designers play around with organza, but at Fendi they were the most luxurious, comfortable, and lightest fabrics I had seen. So much technology seemed to have gone into those fabrics. Laser-cut organza was layered in different shades of colors, brought into lovely pastel trench coats, cropped tops, and other tops and skirts etched with triangular patches of razor-thin fur. I loved how he made fur – in dresses, coats, tops, and skirts - accessible for a summery day; that red laser-cut fur jacket and skirt above was everything. Organza never looked so fresh and luxe as it did at Fendi. Well, thanks to Mr. Lagerfeld.

Prada may be one of the biggest highlights of the season other designers may find it hard to beat when it comes to FASHION. Miuccia Prada does fashion. There is never quite a trend to follow at her shows. She just puts them out there for the audience to imagine her compelling stories that go so well with her choice of songs (Work Bitch by Britney Spears was played here). I’ve always seen Prada as a love affair. You think it’s wrong or ugly what she does, but most of us end up loving and dreaming her collection after a couple of times. It’s so awkward but it feels good to think about wearing one her clothes. And that’s the message she always brings to her collection: Don’t judge a book by its cover. Because under all those esoteric layering’s -  soccer socks, ribbed tops, bra tops, skirts - there is something special made just for you; I have her recent men’s summer collection stuck in my mind.   She said her new collection was one of her most personal to date, but it also was one of her strongest collections to date. 

She took sportswear and turned into a powerful message of female struggles. All those graffiti facial portraits that were painted on the murals of her runway were applied to her dresses to give a different meaning to each individual – hope, rejection, depression, happiness. Those images conveyed the power of femininity. She also layered embellished and stamped bra tops over coats and dresses like a form of self-confidence. Am I ready to show skin or not? There seemed to have been so much personal feelings into this collection.

Coats were by far the most noteworthy ones, especially those gorgeous graphic colored mink coats; if her $44,000 floral mink coats from her spring 2013 collection were a sensation, I have a feeling Ms. Prada knew very well what to invest into this collection. But not only will her colorful mink coats (our secret sin) and embellished dresses be displayed on magazines. Her accessories (which always sell the most) like those vibrant sandals and handbags are sure to have customers ordering more than one. And again, all those superb embellishments may be too much for your personal like, but if you analyze the rest, there will be something that will have a meaning to you. That being said, this was a beautiful collection of art.

Milan Spring 2014 Fashion Week: Gucci, Dsquared2, and More

From left: A Gucci mesh and metallic silk dress; Close-up details of an Alberta Ferretti spring 2014 dress.

The Dsquared2 label is not meant to be loved or worn by anyone in general. The girl who wears Dean and Dan Coten’s design has to have lots of attitude and confidence to pull of those mini strapless dresses that were presented at their show. It was all about a day at the pool, because models either wore those strapless numbers, or a combination of hotpants paired with suits, cropped tops, or over embellished jackets. There most “normal” pieces most women could deal with were their cropped pants, a navy 50s inspired dress, and some of their luxe detailed coats. The rest may have been too much color in your face like those visible crocodile jackets – in cherry and sky blue – one could notice a mile away. But hey, Dsquared2 knows how to have fun, and even if the clothes weren’t the most compelling of all (it will be for their very loyal customers), one thing for sure is the twins know how to put on a good show that cheers you up no matter what. Let’s take a trip to the pool.

The perks of being an athletic glam Gucci woman. And sexy if you think about it. Frida Giannini has one of the biggest responsibilities where risks aren’t really allowed to be experimented as much as one would like to. She’s the one to claim for making this luxury empire produce millions of dollars each season – Gucci is one of the most savvy brands that sells easily to the point when sales arrive you can hardly get what you wanted (It’s either now or never). And Gucci is one of those labels where party is part of its lifestyle – Slender sexy silhouettes that are eye catching and luxurious. Last season, she sent her models in tight hugging and python numbers that have been a sensation. This time she took a risk and went for a full collection of relaxed silhouettes. Was the risk well received?

Her first model came out in a black provocative mesh shirt with very relaxed printed silk shorts. A feminine version of a men’s basketball shorts? Silk laser-cut metallic prints were the main benefactor that aided in this new silhouette. Prints were injected into oversized t-shirts, caftans, tunic dresses, inspirational track pants, kimonos, and more mesh jackets with insets of triangular bra tops; it was even more intriguing to see models in wet hairstyles as if they had been working out. High lurex, like a green version Karmen Pedaru wore were sporty, while dresses that emphasized the hips hinted a sexier version between the new modern 20s and sportswear. Some of those halter dresses Giannini created were the ones with a bigger potential to be a hit next summer. 

It is no doubt Giannini’s version of sportswear had nothing about simplicity and relaxation. The Gucci women is outspoken, and these looks were surely approved to take them from the streets to the party; I loved how Frida knows her Gucci customer so well. Back to reality, this collection would have worked better if only she would have stopped going wild over those sometimes nostalgic criss-crossing straps. Overall, it was nice seeing the designer going for newer shapes. And side note, if you plan to join the Gucci group here, Giannini sent a secret message about dressing like one: Sandals and flip-flops are unacceptable (none were present here like in other designers). Because nothing looks sexier than a good pair of heels. Agreed. 

Alberta Ferretti designs for the woman who wants to feel romantic and pretty. That’s how it felt at her new South American inspired collection; it seemed she had taken a trip to Mexico from my own visual perspective though. She always chooses light fabrics that are very feminine with only small amounts of embroideries to make someone feel special. The woman who tries on one of her dresses can always leave feeling beautiful. And that was the case with her beautiful floral embroideries etched on dresses and cropped tops that looked sophisticated with bold colored skirts. Threaded bonds of fluorescent colored ribbons attached to white dresses lifted the spirit up, as were her youthful orange and green applique of floral dresses. This was a collection with great sense of fabrics – light, feminine, and subtle – which is how women would want it.

Final Day of Milan Men's Spring 2014 Shows

Day 4 of 4 Milan Men's Fashion Week: Sporty Cool

Vibe: The Power of Blue.

Giorgio Armani seems to feel blue is the power of masculinity. You can't recall a season you won't see specifically any blue, white, or gray in Armani's menswear collection. Blue was for the most part the center of attraction, because it is the way Armani handles his designs that never makes them dull. Graphic t-shirts were interesting to see in Armani's collection. 

He did in fact squeezed in small amounts of pastel colors, like one washed orange trouser with an impeccable brown laser-cut jacket that looked freshening yet classical for the Armani man. Suits weren't as compelling to see, because it is about the same construction that he delivers each season. One white dress shirt in particular - cut in an asymmetrical form with a stand-up collar (above) - felt new, even though we know assymetry is what Mr. Armani favors. Crocodile duffle bags - in white and dark blue-green - were noteworthy.

Vibe: The Jungle Lifestyle.

Dean and Dan are the go to designers for an adventurous journey. That is what Dsquared2 has always been about. In fashion the term "cool" can refer to clothes that have an appealing silhouette that could favor a younger audience. But with Dsquared2 cool is refers to what an actual young teenager would go wild for, begging his parents to give this as his Birthday present. The kid doesn't ask for much. 

The Jungle was the inspiration Dsquared2 took for its men's spring 2014 collection. Baggy jeans, prints of wild jungle animals on jackets, protective boots, and joyful necklaces were just a part of this exciting collection. Their zebra print leather jacket imbued somewhat of a sexier appeal with those olive leather shorts. It was a cool kids dream. Naughty were their printed swim shorts and underwear. Formalwear also had a spice factor they can keenly elevate. A bronze tree branch print suit paired with rich black tailored pants and glossy loafers was a finale that marked the outgoing cool guy Dsquared2 is.

Vibe: The Sleek Morning Trend. 

Z Zegna is like the brother of the high-class Ermenegildo Zegna, who Stefano Pilati made presence of in its spring 2014 collection. They may be brothers with the same taste of luxury house codes, but a very opposite sense of style. What Stefano Pilati made in high-end relaxed silhouettes, Paul Surridge went with high-end sporstwear silhouettes. 

Surridge changed slim pants for more relaxed silhouettes that had a high silky movement that resembled track pants athletes would wear in a much more refined manner. He shifted from dress shirts to light fabric boxy t-shirts tucked under comfortable high-neck knits that looked sophisticated to say the least. There were also a number of suit "pajamas" that had nice relaxed tailoring to them. It was perhaps the color choices that aided them to feel modern. Surridge did include few pastel colors, like a rich cream bone jacket that wasn't too much for the models hairstyle theme. Thin leather bags, almost paperlike, were appropriate for the collection. In short descriptions, it felt like the closet a man would be fond of dressing as in the morning when those tiresome casualness kick in.  

Milan: Gucci Men's Spring 2014, Roberto Cavalli, and More

Day 3 of 4 Milan Men's Fashion Week: Texture Techniques.

Vibe: Youthful Luxury.

The first model came out in a full floral print t-shirt, matching leggings, and an interesting black backpack. A full astonishing ensemble. The effortless cream setting sent a vintage relaxed feel, and once the first two models walked down the runway, all became instantly clearer. Frida Giannini has recently become mother to a baby girl, who will most likely experience the luxurious life a young Gucci girl should have. Her motherhood experience may seemed to have helped transform the phase of the new Gucci man we witnessed: more youthful, delicate, and athletic.

She replaced all her button-down dress shirts for t-shirts - floral prints, yellow, light brown, blue, red - and easily appealing silk scarfs styled around suits. Too casual? Not at all. She perfectly managed to keep the Gucci guy on luxury territory. One full matching gray floral print suit had a triumphing victory to the the collection. And Gucci being an international label who is best at designing on trend luxury outerwear, utilized its sportswear mood to present a series of exquisite anoraks with various color-blocked leggings done in rich high-tech fabrics. Her other light trench coats and blousons were worth the effort. Giannini stamped yet another obsession to be included in international editorials and magazines very soon.

Vibe: Playing with your Biker Jacket.

Diesel Black Gold started off day 3 of Milan Men's fashion week with a great show. Well, maybe not as perfect, but you can't help but try on one of their jackets or denim you know have a clean cool vibe in them. The brand is always looking for new methods to keep their designs updated and desirable in todays competitive market. The presentation opened with a white biker that was finished with an additional cream detailed hem, and slouchy pants (jeans) that has become quite a trend over these past few weeks in men's spring 2014 collections. Trending were their floral brushed denim jackets that would have its Diesel guys going wild for them. They added a nice notch to the classical denim top. It was fine to see a black leather t-shirt paired with an appealing semi-stained graphic suit and skinny-slim cropped jeans.

Vibe: The Modern Dandy.

Roberto Cavalli only offered 19 looks for its new spring 2014 men's wear collection. But that's more than enough to invest in the entire collection. If you don't favor Roberto Cavalli's work, then there must be something odd in you. The king of subtle prints, who knows how do masculine embroidery superbly well, evidently kept his crown once more. The Cavalli man is one who can be identified for being outgoing, festive, a cool dandy, and knows how to appreciate the feeling of luxury. All were evident in these collection. His embroidered shirts had a very satisfying confidence men wouldn't mind wearing, whilst his silk smooth suits - especially the final one pictured in the middle - were captivating. His outerwear wasn't left behind. A brown embroidered collarless biker jacket in leather and black python sleeves were more than gratifying to have come across by. 

Vibe: A Gentleman's Mermaid.

Canali is a label you can recognize it's suits by its light gray tone of stripes that can help one know who you're wearing. A crisp blue suit, sophisticatedly tailored, were noteworthy of a man who has a sharp taste of style. It was interesting to see Canali go into semi-casual looks that weren't unappealing to see. A light denim suit, pictured above, looked fresh with diminutive polka dot print trousers, a blue-striped shirt, and a white and purple polka dot tie. Mermaid prints in shorts, sweaters, and suits made of nice insets to the newly Canali man. Its trousers were much more interesting to see available come in a strong tailored palette of colors. Canali set a questionable doubt here. Conservative or youthful? Which route did the brand actually take?

Vibe: Outerwear Luxe Gear. It's necessary.

Belstaff doesn't make the most desirable outerwear you'd wear for a temporary season. They understand a man is much more adventurous, and wants to feel they've invested in a luxury piece that won't hurt him when he accidentally scratches his newly thousand dollar outerwear jacket. That has been Belstaff goals for many years. Making men feel not only protective in their jackets, but trendy. It's new spring 2014 menswear collection had a mixture of vintage and past seasonal collection incorporated back again here: iconic belted coats modernized in colors and details, newly hand-painted camouflage jackets that looked so new to the brand, brilliant orange parkas, and leather ribbed biker jacket. Creative director, Martin Cooper, included only two noteworthy sweaters - one in orange (pictured above) and light blue - that imbued a high-tech competition to other outwear designers.

Vibe: Mesh Shirts are In.

There is not much to say about Emporio Armani men's spring 2014 collection. Armani seems it will always stick to its regular house codes no matter what season. But the only thing we appreciate from him is bringing in new shades of colors in each collection. This season he went for more intense metallic colors the Armani man would enjoy wearing. His graphic t-shirts and shady suits had some pieces to be inspired by. There were asymmetrical jackets that have become the trademark of the brand. His trousers had a choice of going fitted, slim, or relaxed, which is what most men would appreciate from Armani. Shorts, such as one light gray tailored above, had a sportswear aesthetic that were convincing to watch. But his mesh fabric - in suits and shirts - reminded us of who the Armani man is: a fit contemporary city man who has little to fear about who he is.

Vibe: Keeping it Cool in the Desert.

Fendi's runway can never be disappointing to experience. I wonder how much sand it took to fill that marvelous runway to look appealing to to the new men's spring 2014 collection? Fendi demonstrated they don't only know how to play with fur. They too can deliver an exciting collection of bold textures. Innovative t-shirts have become a bigger trend in menswear, but it is the price brands have to battle to get a customer to truly buy that single t-shirt that will add a significance to anything they wear. A plain white t-shirt or a glossy faded illusional Fendi t-shirt? Fendi is the winner; t-shirts were an important part of the collection. 

Texture was crisply noticeable in outwear - cracked glossy leather jackets, ostrich jackets, crinkled shorts, and knitwear sweaters. A splash of colors - burgundy, sunset orange, saffron, blue, and tan - drove the collection much higher. Even though half of Fendi's pieces were oversized or more relaxed, they couldn't be analyzed harshly; texture aided. Sneakers - graphically painted - were fresh with a relaxed gray suit, larger t-sirt, and matching trousers with hems rolled up. 

Vibe: El Mariachi.

Etro can never go out of style with its upgraded paisley shirts. That is the print (paisley) that has been its signature mark ever since. For spring, Kean Etro seemed to be dedicating an homage to the Mariachi man. Pants - in studded details - resembled the gold side seams a Mariachi pant would come decorated with. Trending were its fitted color-blocked pants - the best in the collection - which reminded one of how the more casual Mariachi pant is, only done in Etro's version. The full collection of pants are sure to be a big hit for the brand next summer, and in international men's magazines. Etro's formalwear also kept the vibe going on with his exquisite embroidery details that made you want to sing a Mexican song with those vibrant sombreros. Overall, what seemed to be a Mariachi interpretation helped Etro be on the map of designers with great influence.

Milan Menswear Spring 2014: Calvin Klein, Prada, and More

Day 2 of 4 Milan Fashion Week: Innovative Designs

Vibe: Sophisticated Men in Graphic Chalk Marks.

Tomais Maier doesn't need much to describe about his cool sophisticated tailoring that has progressed so rapidly at Bottega Veneta. It seems the brand has turned from being just a young teenager to a man with exquisite taste in luxury. Its spring 2014 men's collection started off fresh and powerful with gray suits - tailored so easily fitted - that shifted into a series of white-chalked outlined suits that portrayed the detailed craftsmanship that goes into making such a suit. They had an illusion, as if the lapels were really sewn it, but if you could get closer you'd see it was only a well played tailoring outline trick. His white subtle button down shirts came with black graphic chalk marks that elevated the mood. 

Maier has become well acquainted in designing very gratifying sweaters that have become a trademark to the growing brand. His intense graphic selection of cardigans and sweaters scored high in this collection. While trousers were appearing to be favoring darker shades, his introduction of white and navy windowpane-checked ones were refined at Bottega's codes; sleek, luxurious, and masculine. His other knitted polo shirts and wide-sleeve shirts were special to the man who seeks to invest in an innovative top. There was one shirt who had outline of a what appeared to be the making of a biker jacket printed over it.  The finale of models wearing white suits, felt more relaxed, but that didn't stop Maier from his triumph.

Vibe: Improved Snake skin and Ostrich Shorts.

There were speculations that designer, Umit Benan, would part away from the famous Trussardi leather goods brand, which he did. So in February, Gaia Trussardi, granddaughter of Dante Trussardi (founder), was appointed as creative director of the entire main line. Who else to do the job and reward them then someone from the family? Gaia is young, but her youthfulness doesn't seem to interfere with her skills, because her debut for Trussardi men's spring 2014 collection was quite a strong one. 

Knitwear pieces had a rugged appeal in colors that seemed to come from the hot desert. By far, her most special items here were her shorts - crafted in leather, ostrich, and snakeskin - that couldn't be allowed to be described as "average." She managed to deliver light touches of earthy leather button-down shirts that could have a potential customer wanting several of them. Her cropped trousers, such as one in a leather snake print, were pleasing in some ways. She also thought about offering options to the client who prefers to wear a luxurious crisp white trouser paired with a super light linen shirt and jacket. One gray tank top done in leather called for next's summer to arrive. Leather or not, the collection had Trussardi's elements.

Vibe: The Color-block Ongoing Trend.

Iceberg can be mostly identified by its cool color-block designs. Its spring 2014 menswear collection couldn't let go of the brand's signature. Federico Curradi sent another great selection of fresh color-blocking designs. His focus this season seemed to be that of the zippers. There were zippers attached everywhere: across sweaters and jackets, side seams of shirts, hems of fitted trousers, pockets of white and black shorts, and shoulder sleeves of t-shirts. All added a cool factor to the the collection. His origami stitched patches of colors on sweaters felt appropriate to wear any season.

Vibe: The Future of Casual Sportswear.

"Formalwear is imbued with the efficiency and comfort of sportswear," were Massimiliano Giornetti's words towards its new spring 2014 menswear collection for Salvatore Ferragamo. It was in fact noticeable what Giornetti was trying to describe previously. Clothes felt so light. So comfortable infused with a spring of colors - light green, caramel, white, khaki, sky blue, orange, and intense blue - that sent a futuristic silhouette to how athletic guys will dress. The play of numbers stitched in tank tops, sweaters, and coats were that of what a sports guy would feel devoted towards. His shorts were crisp and somewhat casual-formal when brought with effortless colors of suits, whilst trousers had a clean cut with those folded layers between the knee. Ones to watch were Ferragamo's techno anoraks. Gladiator leather-type sandals were that of what the true casual athlete would wear. This was a collection that understood what sportswear should luxuriously appear like.

Vibe: Technology of the Sky Prints.

Calvin Klein reminded one of how the future of menswear fashion could look like in those intensely blue numbers; it may have been the hairstyle of the first few models that felt we were in another dimension. Italo Zucchelli's spring 2014 menswear collection was about the "celebration of the summer sky, and the simplicity of the summer wardrobe." The sky is blue, and blue was the color that gave life to most of the high-tech collection. Zuchelli has been a long respected designer, who understands clearly the codes of the Calvin Klein aesthetics, but over the time he has made his signature techniques much more visible. He knows how to choose the best sophisticated high-end fabrics, giving it a sharp futuristic tailoring technique that never fails to disappoint. He began with a series of tech blousons and sweaters - cut in mesh - that were paired with fluorescent wool pants that said tough boy. His cloud print sweaters and t-shirts, and two images of sunset, were sci-fi.  He presented three super authentic crocodile jackets, but one baby blue crocodile vest screamed more luxury than simplicity. 

Vibe: The Knitwear World.

Missoni's spring 2014 menswear runway was decorated with huge threads of yarn on each side that reminded us what we were about to experience. Angela Missoni knows her presentation is never a show without new introductions of fresh knitwear cardigans and sweaters. These are knits you really have to get close to appreciate each and every detail of how the threads of fabric are mixed to understand its luxurious price tag. They do have a very different feel compared to an average knitted one, which is why Missoni is the best at delivering its trendy pieces of knitwear. Button down shirts hand painted in brushes of blue, brown, and red added an interesting effect to them. Suits - made in Missoni's signature print - were refreshening ones, while a new blue checked suit paired with a navy t-shirt were youthful and energetic as the Missoni brand projected.

Vibe: A Quirky-Cool Tropical Vacation.

Leave it up to Miuccia Prada to make your vacation the most interesting of all. It takes time to adjust to the lifestyle Prada prefers to be: ugly-chic. But it is that ugliness that magically turns into a beautiful piece of art that has made the brand so successful over the years. And it wasn't too difficult to fall in love with these collection if you're a huge Prada fan. 

The show began with a tropical print silk shirt paired with a soft tailoring suit and trousers. Most of her suits had a very relaxed silhouette, but her silk numbers - blousons, tropical shirts, and vibrant shorts - had a dominating factor you had to go back again to enjoy. It was as if Miuccia was describing the liberation of man who seeks to advance to the next level of fashion with full confidence. A salmon print blouson with a semi-drawing of a woman had a seductive power. And her knitwear pieces - cut in a smaller size - came in various phases of nature scenes that went from a joyful mood to a calm satisfying state of mind with models sprayed with water to give the show a hot summery season made with love. The atmosphere was everything to give Miuccia Prada a huge applause for her new innovative trend towards menswear fashion. 

Versace Men's Spring 2014 Athletic Movement

"Athleticism, idealism, discipline, and freedom rule." Those were Versace's description for its spring 2014 menswear collection. It wasn't difficult to search for these terms here when given Versace's dictionary. Donatella Versace sent a parade of well built models to center around her theme: the life of a compassionate and devoted athlete in the world of sports. It's just that in Versace's world, everything is done with more exposure and somewhat sexier etiquettes.

Her suits - given a tough disciplinary tailoring - may have been surprisingly classic (simple) for the Versace customer. She gave a sporty silhouette to her suits and trousers - relaxed in a lower waist and finished with ribbed cuffs - that made it ideal for her athletes to go from the gym to an important event. There were a variety of options to choose from: single or double breasted, one or two buttons, silk, denim or leather suits, waist belt suits, and striking prints that came with the words "Versace" printed all over and another one in sports training figures. Dress shirts came in standard versions of white with a gold medusa button at top, to a very revealing see-thru lace number.

There were only five different looks of shorts in these collection that were quite pleasing. She presented three suits with tailored shorts, and one faded blue short with a lustrous blue sleeveless shirt. But what took the best prize here was a hot light green suede short paired with the same colored jacket; it was either the perfect color and details of these short or the model who wore it covered with fluorescent tape  around his legs that made them so desirable. 

Freedom were her number of graphic art pants, shirts, and jackets that are sure to be a big hit next summer. Oversized tape, which could turn into a DIY project like her cashmere sweaters - attached with a black leather star and gold medusa necklace- made gratifying insets. A series of leather bags decorated with leather stars and black medusa studs spoke for themselves: "I'am wearing Versace." 

And a collection without leather at Versace, regardless what season were in, wouldn't be a Versace show. Her motor jackets were crafted with great triumph; the details of its medusa zippers elevated the sportswear spice. There still remained "classical" gold studded biker jackets that looked comfortable and ready to become an obsession among the young group of provocative rebel guys.

Leather trousers also had a light clean cut that felt comfortable and breathable to wear in some. One python suit and trousers finished in ribbed cuffs may have not looked light, but it proved Versace knows how to handle leather with ease. And as far as casualness went, a colored medusa print shirt with black side detailed pants and open toed sandals, had nothing too casual. 

Dolce and Gabbana Men's Spring 2014 Greece Influence

It's been quite a week for designers, Domenico Dolce & Stefano Gabbana. First came their tailoring presentation and opening store in London, then came the court battle, and finally we were honored to experience such a beautiful collection of extraordinary scenes of Greece meets Italian craftsmanship. There was a resemblance going on in this runway just like a battle that was going on in real life. Zeus vs. Apollo. Which greek god would you go towards? It is only these designers who make choosing a printed shirt so difficult to decide. There was a scenery in every piece that  you could think of - shirts, jackets, suits, shorts, and trousers - that added a soothing atmosphere to their looks with their relaxed silhouette. Once again, professional male models should most likely be forgetting to walk on this prestigious runway, because Sicilian men seem to be sticking with the brand. And even though some may have been disappointed, we appreciated reuniting with their Sicilian models. It is perhaps that we know they're not professionals, and their heights, that makes us feel were receiving a warm welcome from the brand.

Suits were no where loose like in previous collections. They were the contrary. A sharp tailoring that almost looked too perfect to be true. And they came in a masculine number of colors - light gold, dark brown, dark green, cherry red, baby blue, cream, plum, bronze, black, and white - in some choices of either single or double breasted looks. Skinny pants here looked formal when paired with these luxurious confident suits. Other colored pants were fitted and cut at appropriate lengths. A particular dress shirt, such as a black shirt pictured, caught a special attention with oversized buttons. Some suits printed with the image of the Greek god, Apollo, were pleasing to watch as well.

After their court rule, there were speculations that Dolce & Gabbana would present a series of stripe designs in their spring collection. The rumors weren't false after all. Stripes - in duller shades - were present in suit ensembles, shorts, and other shirts. And speaking of shorts, their somewhat fitted short shorts had a nice appeal to them with various printed scenes. They would make a great combo with a simple t-shirt, or why not, without one if you have the body to show it. Their knitwear pieces - one in blue and purple - were no doubt fresh and tough to say the least. Accessories - sandals, dress shoes, belts, and bags - described the whole triumphing story.

Milan Menswear Spring 2014: Jil Sander, Ermenegildo Zegna, and More

Day 1 of 4 Milan Fashion Week: Relaxed Silhouettes

Vibe: Riviera Knits

Corneliani opened its menswear show with a bright sunny morning. The sun shined, but Sergio Corneliani's spring 2014 collection lacked some sparkle. His first look came in a cream high-collared jacket/suit that seemed a bit outdated. There was something missing in his jackets that brought the collection down some points. It was maybe perhaps the poor color choices and simplicity of his designs that didn't help bring back memories of these pieces unless we were to look back at the collection again.  

But not all was lost in this collection. His cotton knitted sweaters - woven with a mixture of youthful colors - were one of the best from Corneliani; fresh when paired with slim fitted pants. Another hit here were two specific suits - one in pale pink and the other in blue-gray - that elevated the mood to a cool trip to the riviera with leather sandals. Overall, his tailoring and textural skills saved most of the collection from drowning. And we need those knitted numbers ASAP. 

Vibe: The Haute Couture Gentleman

Ever imagined how haute couture would look for a man? We already know Ermenegildo Zegna is a label that takes menswear luxury to a whole another level. It's Fall 2013 menswear collection just showed how much power they have over the luxury market: mink and deer skin jackets; the best silk and velvet suits. Stefano Pilati, ex-designer of Yves Saint Laurent, recently became the new creative director of the label. And his spring 2014 menswear debut went on a very high-end couture route, but before judging it is crucial to keep in mind that the price tag for these collection will probably be way above the average Zegna customer who loves to purchase an exquisite item each year.

Pilati went for a more relaxed silhouette without forgetting to let go of the term "luxury," which was obvious in this collection. He specifically played around with a number of suits - paired with the same fabric, but adding a jacquard pattern to his pants that made them much more delicate. His blousons and shorts - rich in color - vamped up the Zegna gentleman. Safari jackets, oversized and lean coats, foulards tucked inside lapels, and trompe de l'oeil sleeves rolled up, were all the returning signature of Mr. Pilati.

Vibe: Parisian Streetstyle guys

Costume National tends to be the brand who can do the French casual of streetstyle pretty well. A white number ensemble with a loose shirt, intricate hat, and white boots with black belt buckles had a cool appeal to the whole look. Being easy and fly is probably the road the Costume National man prefers to take. One model wore a khaki trenchcoat with a long black/white tank top, slim black pants, and black boots. Total fresh appeal for the guy who is looking for something to be photographed by streetstyle photographers. Another shiny gold suit spoke of the man who is outspoken, but seemed a little too much for the Costume National customer. One thing we've learned from the brand is that extremely French casual is all in the details.

Vibe: Skater Boys Gone to Fashion Week

It's going to be three seasons since Ms. Sander's has taken over her own namesake label. She perfectly has kept her title reigning as the "Queen of Clean," making the most minimal of things stand out. Minimal is something extremely hard to achieve in fashion, but Jil Sander has never had a problem hypnotizing us with her designs. Yes, the looks may be somewhat too simple, but that's what minimal is, and Sander's seems to have added a magic potion to her designs that attract us what so ever. Her spring 2014 menswear collection was yet another additional reigning point to her title.

Her slim-fitted pants - trimmed shortly above the ankle with oversized cuffs - were razor sharp clean. She added some glossy suits that would look perfect in her style or with any other look. Light patterned cardigans were brushed perfectly to keep things minimal. Oversized shorts - in neutral colors and prints with exaggerated cuffs - were interesting to watch. The most surprising of all were her print ensembles, which at one point created doubt. But if you thought about separating them, and incorporating only one of the suit jackets or pants with another one of your own outfits, they would be the perfect execution. Seems Jil Sander didn't loose her crown after all.

Vibe: Leather Bondage

Les Hommes (The Men) played a fair game at its spring 2014 menswear collection. If anything you should be familiar with this brand, it should be their suits - trendy with its slim silhouettes, well crafted, and luxurious. Leather played an important factor in this collection. Their color-blocked leather shirts looked casually luxurious when layered under suits. Liked it or not, it was somehow doubtful to give the answer. And if these particular looks were questionable, their suits were no doubt the star of the night. The manner in which one suit was designed in leather sleeves was a favorite to have tried on. The structure and design in which most of the suits were made called for an evening celebration. Why? Because you want to be the well dressed gentleman of the night. Some prints - especially in suits - were pleasing to have seen.

Vibe: The Guy in the Coolest Jacket

What Neil Barrett didn't do so good from the waist down, he did from the waist up. His spring 2014 menswear collection of outerwear was everything here. Leather jackets - in special patterns, stripes, and checker boards - were a must have for any season. Sure, its a spring collection, but Mr. Barrett's jacket said something else: your next most timeless piece of outerwear you should invest in. His other sweaters and knits were one's to also pile in your wardrobe. As far as mastering goes, he excels in outerwear.