Chanel Knows How to Have Fun

A review from Chanel, Valentino, and Alexander McQueen Spring 2014 Collections.

Give Karl Lagerfeld a paintbrush and he’ll probably laugh at you. He doesn’t take art as serious as other designers are doing in their collections. In fact, he injects irony like he did at his Chanel spring 2014 collection; he took modern art and developed it into a chic fashion statement. The setting of the show – an art gallery - consisted of 75 fake art pieces Mr. Lagerfeld proudly stated he did them over the summer. Well, those oversized art pieces weren’t made by him, but you get the idea – he specifically instructed how he wanted it to be done. He must have been the only designer who had fun over the break, because these clothes were nothing but fun pieces of art that were wearable or fit for your salon.

Color was more than enough to satisfy any woman. He began with a series of iconic Chanel tweeds or vibrant lightweight bouclé in pink, navy, gray, and white. There were gorgeous knits, sleeveless and short dresses with insets of lace and cropped tops, relaxed leather-thin pants and t-shirts, and much more. He basically offered women all the trends that we’ve been seen from other designers in one whole show; punk, classic, or chic – you decide how you want to look.

The highlights of this presentation though were his finale of multicolor print dresses composed of pleated strips sewn together. You had to see these pieces up close to understand why Mr. Lagerfeld is such a genius. They weren’t just a rainbow of color strips splattered on them or taken into a heating device for pleats to come out perfect…………….they were done with superb intelligence (creativity) and sophistication as the Chanel lady implies. 

 Accessories – graffiti backpacks, creative canvas handbags, oversized pearls that resembled some cool headphones and bracelets, metallic chain phone cases, trompe de l’oeil shoes, and appearances of Lego purses – took the entire collection to a wonderful irony of masterpiece without letting go the Chanel essence. 

Only Karl can make an 89 piece collection look so non-boring and youthful than ever with a vast amount of amazing unique variety, color, and texture. We’d just wish we were part of the Karl/Chanel world; as a guy, I’d love to be the artist model, Marlon Texeira, ported down the art gallery. 

A male model wearing a multi-color printed shirt and washed pants at the Chanel Spring 2014 show.

At Valentino, Maria Grazia Chiuri and Pierpaolo Piccioli, were inspired by the world of theatre and opera that led to creating a modern day luxury collection. More descriptive would be the renaissance couture and romantic luxury that runs through the DNA of the house.
 Honestly, if you ever seen their previous collections, you’d find out they do just about the same types of dresses, but etched with different ideas. It gets boring besides their hot mini-dresses that are a hit every season, which next spring will come beautifully embroidered with prints and flirty peekaboo details; all the front row women looked sexy in the duo’s fall collection. 

I was intrigued this season though with their long-sleeved dresses – although always bell shaped – that looked more youthful and extremely luxurious with great amounts of Valentino’s signature renaissance prints and lace and tulle. They looked even more enticing for young conservative ladies when worn with sandals; it’ll work for the South. 

Pleasing were their knitwear or crochet sweatshirts, embroidered jackets, bow-tie shirts spliced semi-halfway and tailored shorts. It showed the designers are bringing more variety to the brand, or maybe it was just a pretty collection of prints that helped out. 

Alexander McQueen still keeps the beautiful couturier details stamped on its clothes with Sara Burton at the house. I find it hard to describe this collection, because you really have to dive deeply into these pieces to praise their glorious craftsmanship. 

Behind those accessories – helmets, gold and silver harnesses, and chokers – there were surprisingly a great amount of wearable clothes the average customer could wear this time: intricate printed, embroidered, and crocodile bra tops; perforated printed coats; fascinating laser-cut tops and kilts over pants (like a burgundy one pictured above); a white laser-cut dress that was invigorating to watch with diminutive red splashes of couture; and sumptuous flared skirts. 

While her finale of feather and fringed numbers may not have been ones to wear in real life for most of us, they did make a triumphant statement of the real work the McQueen label is so famous for. There is an intense amount of luxury and hours of work that goes into making one single piece of art come to life so magically.

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Details:

From Left: Valentino, a black lace and embroidered mini-dress; Alexander McQueen, a colorful embroidered and laser-cut sleeveless dress; Chanel, a multi-color dress created with layers of pleats and strips sewn in.

Part 2 of 2: A Continuation of Commercial Paris Collections

Part 2 of 2: A review of Stella McCartney, Elie Saab, and Saint Laurent Spring 2014 Collections

A close-up of a Saint Laurent SS14 red zebra and bow-tie sequined dress; a Stella McCartney patchwork lace dress; a red embroidered Elie Saab dress.

A continuation of Part 1 of 2: Paris Fashion Week is Full of Excitement. 

I respect how Stella McCartney has developed her own niche that works so well for the label. Her clothes are always chic, sexy, and comfortable looking with the sportiness she injects into them. Although lately, I believe she may be having too much of a commercial or resort thing stuck in her mind. We were all dying for her edgy relaxed silhouettes that worked for all women when she started, but with so many new designers and high competition today she's staying behind compared to other designers who have developed much more intense creativity. 

She hasn’t lost it all though. Some that were noteworthy here were her interpretations of slimming track suits that came in feminine colors - burgundy, blue, and rose - that focused on the daily needs that have attracted her customers. And those final splendid dresses – colorful patchworks of lace that looked beautiful in the front and the back – will have her women very content for another season.

Elie Saab also appears to be mixing in commercial and his signature lace and embroidery in his ready-to-wear collections. All there is to say is that they make a beautiful collection his loyal customers and young girls will be pleased with in delicate pink, white, green, red, and black. Floral prints and appliqué statements were a plus. 

I’ve already talked about Hedi Slimane as new creative director for Saint Laurent. While on the runway this collection may look trashy and horrible on some of those skinny models, these clothes look superbly different on real people – Kate Upton, Angelina Jolie, Scarlett Johansson – and even normal on his menswear counterpart. There is power to these looks and if Slimane wants to shock the fashion world again, it’s hard to now, because most of us feel comfortable with what he offers. It’s just a matter of imagining someone perhaps like Johansson in them (minus those kitsch sock heels). 

He presented again his grungy leather pieces – skirts, pants, biker jackets, dresses, suits – and emphasized still on chiffon button-down shirts, slim fitted tuxedo cigarette pants paired with borrowed men’s suits. What felt new was a sequined dress, like one he sent out the runway at the beginning of the show and another red zebra stripped dress with a sequin bow-tie wrapped around the waist. There were also cropped jackets, a red sequined striped top, sequined silver-y suits and miniskirt combo, and his final half-sleeve with a puffed up shoulder embroidered with sequined red lips that stated luxury.

He also included color like a deep-cut green mini and asymmetrical blue dress, and a pink strapless one over a black blazer. I personally found a gold metallic wrapped dress he showed would make a great statement for those girls with special attitude. Overall, this wasn't a bad collection if you first learn to see it from a different perspective. As long as that cash registers keeps ringing, nobody else gives a damn what haters have to say. He's just doing his job now, making this label return to everyone's mouth. And trust me, these clothes do look much more inviting on the floor (retail store) then what saw Monday night.

Part 1 of 2: Paris Fashion Week is Full of Excitement

PART 1: A Review of Kenzo, Chloé, Céline, and Givenchy Spring 2014 Collections.

From Left: A wine embroidered draped dress from Givenchy SS14; an olive pleated dress from Chloe; and the back of Celine blue pleated top

Paris Fashion Week is about to end, but that hasn’t stop Paris from showcasing some of the top labels from the fashion industry. Some made a very surprising presentation like at Celine with its giant strokes of art tailoring and Givenchy in its number of intense draped jersey dresses, while others kept their lines luxe commercial like at Chloe’s modern fabrics , Stella McCartney’s intriguing sporty silhouettes, and Elie Saab’s injection of lace that would look great from daywear to evening. Saint Laurent also infused its bias grunge aesthetics into metallics, deep v-cut colored dresses, and of course black leather looks. And all this happened in only two days that explains why Paris is still the center of Fashion. 

Kenzo has turned its logomania items – tiger sweatshirts, blankets, hats – and prints into iconic items anyone can afford to wear and look cool. If it weren’t for those sweatshirts, I believe I probably wouldn’t have been intrigued to seeing their progress or writing about this label. Or it’s probably ever since designers Humberto Leon and Carol Lim were appointed creative directors to the house that have turned Kenzo into a pocket friendly and desirable brand among teenagers. You won’t leave a Kenzo show without being submerged into an overwhelming amount of prints that while it may not work for critics it sure does turn the switch for its younger audience. Humberto and Carl know their marketing skills very well, because if an eye design can sell pretty well, I bet their new series of melting-fish and scribbled waves – in blue, pink, and red – will be swept away and turned into the next street style moment. New were few outfits designed with patches of thick contrasting strips.

Chloé may have also demonstrated to be one of the most effortless and chic girls when it came to true casualwear at its spring 2014 collection Sunday morning. We already know Chloé is one of the labels girls trust when on a busy daywear schedule. You don’t want to look overly dressed, but neither too casual. And over the time, the lovely balance between a boyish rigor and feminine fabric that has become the signature of the brand seems to be shifting around into only relaxed feminine appeal with the exception of its cool cropped trousers. Creative director, Clare Waight Keller, was thinking about modernity – giving clothes and effortless look with more movement through lighter fabrics.

She played around with fabric and proportional details that added a mighty brisk to the new collection – lightweight chiffon dresses that were made to wear for any woman (no ultra-revealing transparency that would require someone to add another slip-dress underneath); super-chic georgette tops and jacquard looks; rough lace dresses; and edgy pleated designs that gave a great amount of texture and attitude to the clothes. Ms. Keller exceled at introducing her vision of a new Chloé without forgetting the boyish swirl Chloé has been so fond of in very thoughtful olives, whites, blues, and black paired with casual sandals. And a small dose of pale pink to brighten things up.

At Céline, Phoebe Philo gave her clothes another different type of movement through her asymmetrical number of pleated skirts painted with gorgeous brushes of strokes over effortless pieces of tailored T-shirts and tank tops that were artwork. What were more intriguing is how she played exquisitely well with colorful pleated tops taken from knits.

 This collection was the most surprising and one of the best to date so far from Philo. She took art and she referenced it perfectly on her designs. Art is a form of movement, freedom, and a state of mind. These clothes were powerful for the woman who knows how to wear them - especially her number of artistic coats with opening gold circles etched on them and graphic buckets of paints spilled on some. They’ll be a hit next season together with her creative selection of shoes and handbags. 

Riccardo Tisci's Givenchy also surprised everyone with his more mature take on draping. Everyone knows who Tisci is now: the guy who hangs around with Kanye West and designs one of the best graphic t-shirts and sweatshirts according to his young clientele.  He knows that’s what sells the most, and prices them at very high values. Whether a lot of work goes into an ordinary black “Pervert” t-shirt or not, he knows it’ll sell at any price he stamps on it. 

This time he let go of those graphic statements and put his work on draping these dresses in several different manners. It felt like watching an advanced draping segment video lesson; they somehow felt awkwardly delicate. His final pleated ones in metallic embroidery and sequins were the ones that were eye catching. Tisci really did push the boundaries here without letting go of his signature dark atmosphere. His spring 2013 collection didn’t work, but this succeeded. 
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Continue Reading more -->Part 2 of 2: A Continuation of Commercial Paris Collection

Christian Dior's Extreme Innovative Transformation

Innovation exploded at the Christian Dior show on Thursday with an extraordinary setting that will have plenty to talk about all season long. With just less than two years since Raf Simons has been at Dior – which seems more than that – he has already caught everyone’s attention whether it be in a bad or esoteric manner. From international actresses, supermodels, to important political figures and the Princess of Thailand, all made their presence at this fashion forward trendsetting show. 


His spring 2014 collection greeted the audience with a mystical setting of real and fake neon vines of flowers hanging on the ceiling that simulated Dior’s secret garden in a much more futuristic statement. It seemed he wanted to bring back the nature theme memories of when he presented his first ever couture show for the house – thousands of flowers mounted on walls – that celebrated the codes of the late Mr. Christian Dior himself.  His spring 2013 ready-to-wear collection focused on tailoring and modern versions of the iconic Bar jackets, and so did his recent fall ladylike collection. But these vines conveyed a different message that one understood after the show. Dior was about to take a severe transformation for many.

He began the show with new interpretations of the bar jacket cropped to reveal some skin and be worn with a hybrid of shorts with pleated floral skirts; some referred to them as skorts. He also introduced unique shirt dresses in blue with twisted details and surprisingly pleasing colorful sleeveless satin tops that were the most ladylike; an ice blue top Kasia Struss wore was provocative paired with a white below-the-knee skirt that was cut very high at the back. 

Fetish-y were the neon trumpet skirts – in yellow, silver, and blue – that barely covered the models legs and side-pleated skirts with an exposed hip-bone on the left side, together  with a few balloon skirts that felt wearable and embroidered cropped tops with an opening keyhole in the middle. There were a number of varsity style looks etched with Dior badges and pleasing knitwear pieces paired with hanging garden inspired jewelry that felt the most comfortable to follow on this new journey.

Questionable were his awkward embroidered dresses with side pleats that looked kitsch and retro dresses with messages printed on them like “Alice Garden,” but they psychologically respected the signature codes of Dior; big change in designs, same codes hidden. I was more fascinated with his two finale black looks – one bar jacket and a coat dress – with insets of floral printed pleats on the back. These looks screamed Raf Simons’ injection to the new and more revealing Dior. Even noticeable were his final metallic looks of silver dresses no one would have expected to see at this show. 

Now, was this collection hard to swallow? It certainly will be for some buyers who won’t know how their average customer will react next season to these clothes. But in fashion, there is a whole different point of view. Mr. Simons is a risk taker, and that was not a secret here anymore. He’s had enough of trying to keep Dior contemporary, because we all know he was not meant to stick with the same styles. Take for example how he has revolutionized men’s fashion with his personal label being one of the most anticipated and innovative shows of the season. He is the first to set trends offering new creative skills.

A Christian Dior Spring 2014 New Bar Suit Jacket with a pleated floral back and leather lace heels by Raf Simons.

His clothes are never meant to be seen as ordinary clothes. They’re meant to be seen as intriguing laboratory experiments you have to risk it like in Dior’s case now. And that’s why I admire about him so much. He said he wanted to take the literal DNA of the house with a different aesthetic – that being his creative injection – that would turn out to offer so much new techniques in one show without letting go of the strictly ladylike codes Dior is known for. He threw in so many ideas that we’ll probably see other designers implement soon in their collections – pleat techniques, lace shoes, twisted techniques and shirt dresses - but in may have been too much for right now where he’s at. The clothes were nevertheless magical on the runway in my opinion with a great taste of color and exquisite tailoring. 

Mr. Simon’s is molding the future of the label. Many have already criticized this collection as a horrible one, but it should be when you’re not exposed to seeing too many ideas in one show. His new tailoring may take time to get used to from what John Galliano did, but with the way his shaking things rapidly, he's developed an intense niche. And you can’t deny Raf is a very talented designer no matter what. Fashion is evolution, and with Simons' noteworthy experiments at Dior demonstrates he is here to stay and catch everyone’s attention. 

Paris Spring 2014 Shows: Carven, Balmain, Nina Ricci, and More

A review of Paris Fashion Week Spring 2014 Collections: Carven, Balmain, Nina Ricci, Paco Rabanne, and Lanvin.

Of the now four years that creative director, Guillaume Henry, has been at Carven, he has rapidly turned this brand into one of the most recognizable labels in Europe and Asia. I believe this has to due to the fact he has a talent for turning something sweet, young, and delicate into a mien naughtiness. Most women want to have something lovely to play around with, be edgy, and feel seductive in what they wear for men; in reality, look effortlessly provocative. And Henry understands that very clearly. His collections are always a hit, just like his previous fall collection - which actually imbued a more mature level - has become a sensation among magazines and editors – especially his oversized pastel coats – that when paired well, will have that special effect a woman looks for.  On the other hand, his new spring 2014 collection revealed the real Carven woman that had been hiding around in his past collections.

The collection nonetheless was more youthful and naughty with those high platform heels models wore on the runway. Provocative were his button-down skirts, short dresses, cross-over cropped tops and gingham button-down shirts with knitted swirls added at its hems, floral print rompers, a blue pleated gingham dress with a kinky sheer top, and relaxed bright floral print appliqué and camouflage coats. All still made again for that innocent girl that won’t be able to do any harm at all with her naughty clothes. This is why Carven is on the lead of fashion, and I wouldn’t doubt seeing younger girls becoming part of this collection next season. 

Meanwhile, Olivier Rousteing has also shown to be a great influence to urbanwear. Balmain has become a demand where celebrities and the outspoken generation of young adults dream of. Olivier knows his niche, and that is creating the most expensive looking badass clothes. Only he can make a denim gold embellished hook-and-eye top with light pleated washed pants look so demanding. Houndstooth looks – jackets, gold-button down and spliced skirts, suit jackets – and checked patterned looks were noteworthy of a streetstyle moment. And of course his signature quilted numbers that can never be left out. Other things that were new or modernized here were his ruffled skirts, a baby blue feather skirt, and his lustrous innovative couture quality dresses. Everything screamed superb luxury a la urban streetstyle here. Prices may be ridiculously high, but we’ve gotten accustomed now to his $1,000 jeans and $50,000+ dresses in case you were wondering. 

“Masculinity meets femininity at Nina Ricci,” was Peter Copping’s new theme for his spring collection. It kind of made sense in the first half of his show – delicate shirt dresses, asymmetrical coats, and pinstriped cropped pants. But it sort of lost me where he was trying to go. Maybe a sensual journey with a man? If so, a number of light lace, silk, chiffon, and delicate knitwear pieces made up for the story. Nina Ricci has a very sensitive feel to its clothes, and Copping always manages to achieve that moment of delicacy. You’d be afraid to harshly grab someone in his designs seeing it so light and subtle. I don’t think prints made a very great appeal to this romantic collection, but it’s always fond to see a designer experimenting with new designs, even though we’d happily see his woman covered in exquisite chiffon dresses.

Lately, there was the news that 30 years old French designer, Julien Dossena, would become the new womenswear head designer for Paco Rabbane. Dossena was once an assistance designer for the famously talented Nicholas Ghesquiere who left Balenciaga to later be replaced by Alexander Wang. I was curious to see if there were gone be any hints of Ghesquiere’s techniques when he debuted his collection. And today he finally presented his first collection for the brand, but there were still some references as to what previous designer, Lydia Maurer, was doing for the brand – reinventing shiny metallic pieces into a wearable manner. Paco Rabbane himself was best known for his take on provocative and futuristic metallic colored designs and chain dresses. It’s hard to keep those types of house codes modernized in today’s society, but Dossena was inspiring himself to take this collection to the streets. 

He gave his metallic clothes a light touch with a hint of streetstyle: mesh athletic tank tops under unzipped dresses, short slip-dresses styled with coats or double-zipper A-line skirts, zipper detailed pants. And he imbued a more harsh futuristic approach in his laquer dresses in burgundy, black, and blue, while his shades of white designs added a soft balance in this collection. I personally found his final bomber jackets commercial, but his overalls and skirts potentials for next season. To be fair, this was a short but sharp collection that will catch the attention of a younger clientele, but there is still a lot of work to be done if this label wants to be back to the level it once was in. Dossena may be that guy.

Lanvin was also competing with a full collection of metallic shades of lamé – purple, pink, bronze, orange, green, and silver – except for a small amount of beautiful black dresses and a gray tweed look that will probably be the most inviting to the average woman next season. There were some pieces that actually did work like a purple chiffon embroidered dress or a green metallic floral printed dress with a bow-tie applied at the bottom left. It’ll maybe take time for some to swallow this collection, but Lanvin is not made for everyone, and depending on the correct woman who puts on one of these lustrous dresses like one Soo Joo Park wore (a bronze strapless dress), they’ll be the star of the night – urban or chic. Accessories- oversized stars, hearts, and chunky stoned necklaces; chunky leather belts; metallic printed scarves and shoes - will make up the sharing factor for every women.

Paris Spring 2014 Shows: Balenciaga's Conversation with Alexander Wang

From Left: Woven leather jacket and skirt; pink woven leather shoes; laser-cut back of white dress

Alexander Wang is really taking his job seriously at Balenciaga. Since being appointed creative director of Balenciaga last November and receiving great reviews for his fall debut collection, he felt comfortable to inject a little of his signature style with the authentic house codes into his new spring 2014 collection he presented today. I was very surprised with this collection, because even though I applauded for his first collection, I thought it would be a passive one. But he proved here that he is a really clever guy who has soaked in all the Balenciaga archives to take it to a new modern couture level with a brisk of streestyle. 


He came up with graphic couture silhouettes like last season that respected the  Cristobal Balenciaga codes – round shoulder, cocoon like backs, curved proportions, and texture – contrasted with a pale palette of colors – in blue, pink, and gray – that played it safe for the designer with his big on top, small below volumes. I would have loved seen much more color most of us were used to when Ghesquiere was around, but his fresh floral print numbers made up for the color. It was interesting they weren’t as aggressive or hard to take in. It may have been the fact that he made them have a life of its own; his white shorts with baby blue hems, a short-skirt, and cardigan were edgy.

When it came to texture or leather, he achieved a marvelous creation. His first look was a strong pale blue rounded shoulder jacket paired with a straight A-line skirt both in woven leather that almost seemed from far away like some sort of cotton. He introduced two sporty looks – a purple tank top and a pale pink cropped top with track shorts – that reminded me of a gym attire but in a much more cool and luxe version the rich girls wouldn’t mind showing off. You would have to see some of these clothes in close-ups to indulge into some of those texturized fabrics - unique hand painted laser-cut tops, superb hand-braided pieces that appeared as print like his shorts and prints. Shoes also seemed even more interesting with better emphasis than from previous ones, while handbags will definitely be another sensation.

Couture-like were his cropped high-waist pants that came with an adjusted hip volume that were the highlight of the show (perfect effortless tailoring), off the shoulder dresses with a light running cocoon shaped back, cropped tops with a long back hem, luxurious corsets over subtle lace and silk hems, and those hybrid of miniskirts/shorts. And he finished with a series of effortless white shirtdresses and sheer suit numbers that were creative coming from someone like him. In all, he delivered again another beautiful and pleasing collection that will have a strong presence next season. Some of those A-line skirts, gym attire, pants, jackets, tops, and shorts will definitely be calling back that young streetstyle fanatic that was in love with Balenciaga. Bravo, Mr. Wang!

Final Days of Milan Spring 2014 Shows

A review of Giorgio Armani, Salvatore Ferragamo, Missoni, and Dolce and Gabbana Spring 2014 collections.

Milan Fashion Week came to a close yesterday with Giorgio Armani being one of the biggest shows of the day and easiest to relate to. The thing about Armani is that he has set his signature looks very high. There is something so confident and serene about his couture cuts you can tell right away who made that dress. He knows who he is and that is all that matters to succeed. While others may find his show a bit boring (or the same continuation), I’m always intrigued to see his palette of colors like subtle pale blues, pinks, and grays he showed for his new collection. Trust me, you can’t find those types of luxury colors anywhere. 

What’s more interesting is that he manages to use the same classical types of fabrics – silk, viscose, chiffon, pique, velvet and wool – and inject into them couture-cuts that are a plus; so delicate it seems they’re worth a fortune. I’ve always been a believer that a woman’s greatest investment should be owning a great pair of Armani trousers or suits, because these designs will never fail to make a great impression. Where he experiments as a designer though are in his prints which sometimes fail to do the work. Some made a nice impression like a digital floral jacket matched with a ghostly faded printed skirt. In all, we saw some of the same classical looks we’ve been familiar with but minimally modernized in some sort of ways. 

Salvatore Ferragamo will be a brand to watch for next season. Creative director, Massimiliano Giornetti, has had his ups and downs over the past few seasons, but I actually saw potential in his new spring 2014 women’s collection. For those of you who are not familiar with this prestigious label, Ferragamo was one of the most iconic names in Hollywood designing shoes for stars like Marilyn Monroe and others. And that has been the goal for Giornetti, keeping the essence of refined glamour. 

He began his show with relaxed creamy striped suits and cropped trousers paired with snakeskin bra tops, sleeveless suit dresses, and others suits cut in half to appear between a cropped top and mini skirt over pants (all detailed with small belt straps). His most talked about pieces were his skirts pleated only halfway at the sides. Some girls may love them and others may not, but his leather numbers felt buttery soft; I personally thought the first few without wraps around looked nicer. He didn’t include much of dresses this season as for he opted to go for skirts and appealing knitwear, but he did include three halter dresses, which I thought his metallic ones, like a gold pleated dress, was casual-luxe. And he may have not imbued a great glamour vibe, but where he did outdo himself was in outerwear – trenchcoats, sleek leather hoodies, blousons, and biker jackets - like his intricate snakeskin jackets that will be a dream for the edgy generation of young girls and women. 

Missoni has been one of those luxury knitwear labels I have been fond of for the past few years. But recently, the family run business seems to be taking things to another direction. Their new collection felt awkward in some ways – birds printed on knitwear, quirky fringed dresses, nature prints – that lost the spirit of the Missoni zigzag signature codes. There were some pretty pieces like their knitwear cardigans and color-block skirts and tops that were fresh. Knitwear is there supreme niche, and we’d love to see more their visible high-tech knits making a strong return soon as were present in their men’s spring 2014 collection. 

At Dolce and Gabbana there was a beautiful treasure hunt going on. Applique of floral and Greek coin dresses, gold laser-cut dresses, intricate prints of ancient ruins, lustrous embroidered dresses, souvenir accessories, and much more to indulge on. We know designers, Stefano Gabbana and Domenico Dolce, have had a hard time lately with the business of their brand, but they’ve managed to show that they deserve to be doing what they do best……………designing to create beautiful clothes and represent Italy in an honorable manner. Most Italians would be proud to have Dolce and Gabbana be a representation of what true Italian fashion is all about. I don’t know about you, but it kind of is a joy to see these designers come up with creative ideas that are marketable yet a personal collection that speaks about their beliefs and history. 

There was so much more to choose from then just the previous descriptions: sheer polka dot blouses and dresses; lacquered skirts and dresses in forest green, burgundy, and red; jacquard coats; soft furry skirts and tops; swimsuit pieces. Their fur numbers were the only thing I wasn’t fond of, but from there on, the hours of thoughts and craftsmanship that was put into this collection paid off.  These were clothes that were made to empower the balance between a delicate and powerful woman. And hopefully aid in balancing the company even more. If feels like a family when you purchase something from this brand.

Spring 2014 Milan Shows: Etro, Versace, and More

A review of Etro, Versace, and Tod's Spring 2014 collections.

Etro is best known for its signature paisley prints. Last season, prints seemed off for this label; they were just not catchy. But this season Veronica Etro was inspired by her grandmother’s country home. They say that sometimes a family run business serves best if inspiration is taken from a relative’s history, and being grandmother the subject, this collection worked very well.

Clothes were colorful, relaxed, decorated with metallic fringes that almost seemed to have referenced an oversized silk luxe scarf. Halter dresses were slightly looser worn with silver belts that looked appealing worn around the waist. I found her cropped pants paired with knits a look that would look effortless at the countryside or casual party. Her approach on prints this time was much more appealing, keeping the brands signature paisley injected into them discretely. This new collection definitely felt inviting. 

 Meanwhile, at Versace Rock badass girls were taking over the runway. The thing about a Versace woman is that she’s not afraid to express who she is. She praises her lifestyle and imbues sexiness in everything she wears. Judging from this collection, Donatella Versace knows who her clients are, because I wouldn’t think a conservative girl would want to walk around with chain medusa harnesses around her body and mesh bandanas. But at the same not everything was hardcore as the label projects.

We know Versace is very revealing, but besides those provocative harness numbers, there were other pieces that felt quite conservatively sexy (soft) for another clientele; it wasn’t as soft though when you saw those stilettos. Her first introduction of circle skirts worn with thick medusa belts felt new and sexy with denim jackets. Denim was actually her strongest niche in this collection – studded denim jackets, hook-and-eye closing skirts, shirts, and intricate pants. Girls will surely feel they rule the world next season with Versace’s pants, like one floral- leather lace pant worn with a Versace 2014 metallic sleeve t-shirt I feel most of us may be seeing it around streetstyle blogs. Printed patterns, metallic (like a lavender look that you could tell right away you were at Versace), leather, and lace dresses were nice to see coming next season. 

It was delighting to see Ms. Versace do something that looked easy on the eye and humbly sexy without too much drama; her menswear collection was also splendid. Just seeing her take her applause for this past two shows projected much happiness in her, and I like the new path this label is taking under her most personal admirations.

Tod’s recently debuted is first fashion show under new creative director, Alessandra Facchinetti; she used to design for Valentino and Gucci back in the day. If I could describe her new collection in one word, it’ll be PERFECTION. Milan has a new star, and it can be found at Tod’s. 

This is what real women want. Italians seems to struggle to portray a collection a woman would be able to wear on a daily basis. Most women would greatly appreciate if they could make designer clothes part of their lifestyle. And Facchinetti received that message and transformed it into one women across the nation will go bananas over……….Casual with a great hint of luxury.

She made leather look paper thin buttery and wearable for summer in burgundy, gray, and pale pink colors; no stiffness what so ever. Shirtdresses detailed with a gather across the back looked sumptuous with those belts. Shorts, skirts, suits and relaxed pants caught everyone’s attention. That baby blue number was a dream in heaven paired with exquisite leather sandals; it was an impeccable tailoring. White eyelet button-down shirts and jackets were also freaking fascinating. The only thing I did not understand was those head pieces two models wore, but who cares, because all 29 looks of clothes and shoes is what women will be pleased to wear. Who knew an accessories brand could be so captivating.

Fendi and Prada Spring 2014 Collections: A Beauty of Art and Technology

A review of Fendi and Prada Spring 2014 Collections. 

From Left: Graphic Prada coat and yellow bejeweled shoes; Fendi spring 2014 laser-cut fur top and plastic organza heels.

You know where Karl Lagerfeld goes it’ll always make a great impression. That’s how it was at Fendi’s new spring 2014 collection. You have to respect what Mr. Lagerfeld does, because someone like him has to have a lot of creativity and think fast at the same time. Two weeks from today he’ll be presenting his Chanel show, but we never get a clue what to expect at his other show (unlike Marc Jacobs which you kind of know what to expect at Louis Vuitton). Fendi and Chanel may be done by the same designer, but they definitely have a different taste. Mr. Lagerfeld is a lover of organza – something you won’t see much at Chanel – but given he was at Fendi that was what he showed us.

I never feel intrigued by the way other designers play around with organza, but at Fendi they were the most luxurious, comfortable, and lightest fabrics I had seen. So much technology seemed to have gone into those fabrics. Laser-cut organza was layered in different shades of colors, brought into lovely pastel trench coats, cropped tops, and other tops and skirts etched with triangular patches of razor-thin fur. I loved how he made fur – in dresses, coats, tops, and skirts - accessible for a summery day; that red laser-cut fur jacket and skirt above was everything. Organza never looked so fresh and luxe as it did at Fendi. Well, thanks to Mr. Lagerfeld.

Prada may be one of the biggest highlights of the season other designers may find it hard to beat when it comes to FASHION. Miuccia Prada does fashion. There is never quite a trend to follow at her shows. She just puts them out there for the audience to imagine her compelling stories that go so well with her choice of songs (Work Bitch by Britney Spears was played here). I’ve always seen Prada as a love affair. You think it’s wrong or ugly what she does, but most of us end up loving and dreaming her collection after a couple of times. It’s so awkward but it feels good to think about wearing one her clothes. And that’s the message she always brings to her collection: Don’t judge a book by its cover. Because under all those esoteric layering’s -  soccer socks, ribbed tops, bra tops, skirts - there is something special made just for you; I have her recent men’s summer collection stuck in my mind.   She said her new collection was one of her most personal to date, but it also was one of her strongest collections to date. 

She took sportswear and turned into a powerful message of female struggles. All those graffiti facial portraits that were painted on the murals of her runway were applied to her dresses to give a different meaning to each individual – hope, rejection, depression, happiness. Those images conveyed the power of femininity. She also layered embellished and stamped bra tops over coats and dresses like a form of self-confidence. Am I ready to show skin or not? There seemed to have been so much personal feelings into this collection.

Coats were by far the most noteworthy ones, especially those gorgeous graphic colored mink coats; if her $44,000 floral mink coats from her spring 2013 collection were a sensation, I have a feeling Ms. Prada knew very well what to invest into this collection. But not only will her colorful mink coats (our secret sin) and embellished dresses be displayed on magazines. Her accessories (which always sell the most) like those vibrant sandals and handbags are sure to have customers ordering more than one. And again, all those superb embellishments may be too much for your personal like, but if you analyze the rest, there will be something that will have a meaning to you. That being said, this was a beautiful collection of art.

Milan Spring 2014 Fashion Week: Gucci, Dsquared2, and More

From left: A Gucci mesh and metallic silk dress; Close-up details of an Alberta Ferretti spring 2014 dress.

The Dsquared2 label is not meant to be loved or worn by anyone in general. The girl who wears Dean and Dan Coten’s design has to have lots of attitude and confidence to pull of those mini strapless dresses that were presented at their show. It was all about a day at the pool, because models either wore those strapless numbers, or a combination of hotpants paired with suits, cropped tops, or over embellished jackets. There most “normal” pieces most women could deal with were their cropped pants, a navy 50s inspired dress, and some of their luxe detailed coats. The rest may have been too much color in your face like those visible crocodile jackets – in cherry and sky blue – one could notice a mile away. But hey, Dsquared2 knows how to have fun, and even if the clothes weren’t the most compelling of all (it will be for their very loyal customers), one thing for sure is the twins know how to put on a good show that cheers you up no matter what. Let’s take a trip to the pool.

The perks of being an athletic glam Gucci woman. And sexy if you think about it. Frida Giannini has one of the biggest responsibilities where risks aren’t really allowed to be experimented as much as one would like to. She’s the one to claim for making this luxury empire produce millions of dollars each season – Gucci is one of the most savvy brands that sells easily to the point when sales arrive you can hardly get what you wanted (It’s either now or never). And Gucci is one of those labels where party is part of its lifestyle – Slender sexy silhouettes that are eye catching and luxurious. Last season, she sent her models in tight hugging and python numbers that have been a sensation. This time she took a risk and went for a full collection of relaxed silhouettes. Was the risk well received?

Her first model came out in a black provocative mesh shirt with very relaxed printed silk shorts. A feminine version of a men’s basketball shorts? Silk laser-cut metallic prints were the main benefactor that aided in this new silhouette. Prints were injected into oversized t-shirts, caftans, tunic dresses, inspirational track pants, kimonos, and more mesh jackets with insets of triangular bra tops; it was even more intriguing to see models in wet hairstyles as if they had been working out. High lurex, like a green version Karmen Pedaru wore were sporty, while dresses that emphasized the hips hinted a sexier version between the new modern 20s and sportswear. Some of those halter dresses Giannini created were the ones with a bigger potential to be a hit next summer. 

It is no doubt Giannini’s version of sportswear had nothing about simplicity and relaxation. The Gucci women is outspoken, and these looks were surely approved to take them from the streets to the party; I loved how Frida knows her Gucci customer so well. Back to reality, this collection would have worked better if only she would have stopped going wild over those sometimes nostalgic criss-crossing straps. Overall, it was nice seeing the designer going for newer shapes. And side note, if you plan to join the Gucci group here, Giannini sent a secret message about dressing like one: Sandals and flip-flops are unacceptable (none were present here like in other designers). Because nothing looks sexier than a good pair of heels. Agreed. 

Alberta Ferretti designs for the woman who wants to feel romantic and pretty. That’s how it felt at her new South American inspired collection; it seemed she had taken a trip to Mexico from my own visual perspective though. She always chooses light fabrics that are very feminine with only small amounts of embroideries to make someone feel special. The woman who tries on one of her dresses can always leave feeling beautiful. And that was the case with her beautiful floral embroideries etched on dresses and cropped tops that looked sophisticated with bold colored skirts. Threaded bonds of fluorescent colored ribbons attached to white dresses lifted the spirit up, as were her youthful orange and green applique of floral dresses. This was a collection with great sense of fabrics – light, feminine, and subtle – which is how women would want it.

A Moderate Finale for New York Fashion Week Spring 2014

A review from the Ralph Lauren, Calvin Klein Collection, and Marc Jacobs Spring 2014 shows. 

From Left: Details of a Marc Jacobs Spring 2014 coat; Calvin Klein cotton tweed deconstructed seams; Ralph Lauren spring 2014 floral pattern trench coat.

The last day of New York Fashion Week contains one of the most anticipated and recognizable international designers of all time. It sounds appropriate to end fashion week with such designers like Ralph Lauren, Francisco Costa of Calvin Klein, and Marc Jacobs. But contrary to day 6 and 7 that included one of the best shows of the season – Narciso Rodriguez, Oscar de la Renta, Michael Kors, etc. – day 8 (the last day) wasn’t so compelling after all for these three designers. 

Ralph Lauren has always had a talent for telling such a beautiful and romantic story. It’s hard not to grasp what the designer’s new theme is all about. For his new upcoming spring 2014 collection, there was a minute I thought a new creative director had been hired to take over the label. The clothes looked like something similar you’d find at a commercial retail store. I felt disappointed there were not that many truly designer pieces that conveyed a gorgeous detailed story like last season’s Russian inspired coats and dresses most women would dream of becoming the protagonist. 

He began with sporty (60s inspired) school uniform looks in black and white that later transformed into stripes, and patterned suits accessorized with big chunky ties. They added a very youthful appeal to the new collection, especially when paired with his midi A-line skirts and black leggings. His geometric and floral print numbers were simply nice and pretty, not aweing. He also wanted to introduce a series of strong neon colors – green, orange, yellow, red, and blue – that turned up to be nostalgic. There was a great start to the cut of these sporty designs, but it was clear that if Mr. Lauren would have used his perfectly feminine pastel colors, these looks would have added much more presence.  Evening dresses like a blue neon one Karlie Kloss wore above or a final red dress with a cape were the most convincing ones in this minimalistic collection.

Mr. Lauren knows how to do great evening gowns just like any other piece in his collection, but taking into consideration how much emphasis he has put into his previous collections of masterpiece, this may be the first time and the only time this collection lacks character. But was this collection nice? Yes, indeed, but we know Mr. Lauren can do so much more than this when it comes to his personal COLLECTION. 

At Calvin Klein, Francisco Costa wanted to expose deconstructed seams to say the least. It looked better in pictures than it did close-up. The clothes had a nice message of a minimalistic touch in most of the looks, even though most pieces seemed to have been unsewn at the hems and sides of tops. 

The first model came out with a white strapless top and skirt that looked awkward with those exposed side seam allowance I’d wonder how many women would want to be walking around with their seams and threads exposed; his colored cotton tweed – red, mint, and pink – made an interesting intro to the classical colors of the label –black, gray, and white. There could have been a great potential for his new jackets to become a hit if only he wouldn’t have added too much confusing patchworks into them.

His most innovative looks that imbued a subtle couture sensibility were his yarn like threads that acted as fringe. He used some colored threads to etch into one woven leather black jacket and skirts, but his final three looks of fringed dresses were the ones that were noteworthy. And if you though everything was lost, his snake print tops and dresses patchworked from graphic leather and silk (above) were what minimalism should have been all about in this collection. 

I believe the collection could have worked, but the problem with the clothes was Francisco’s use of stiff fabric that didn’t help much. It became an esoteric collection maybe even editors themselves didn’t quite grasp. One thing I did admire about Mr. Costa in this new collection was his attempt to experiment with more proportions while keeping the Calvin Klein aesthetics untouched.

If you didn’t quite understand what Francisco Costa was trying to do, then you certainly may have been confused with Marc Jacobs’ new spring collection. It felt more wintery then summer with those dark bulky clothes that went down the mystical setting. Well, the clothes did go well together with the dirty, gothic, vintage runway props that were built for the show. And somehow, this was a weird collection for Mr. Jacobs that worked in some sort of way.

His oversized shoulder jackets embroidered with tassels weren’t that pleasing, but his detailed shorts were the ones that may have a potential when next summer arrives. His jackets would have been very enticing if only he would have toned down those shoulders, but he seemed to have known the audience reaction, and he did lower its volume in some of them; Mr. Jacobs always knows. Other chunky leaf patterned tops and dark colored sweaters matched with beaded skirts and Uggs look alike were just amusing. I actually happened to find his leaf patterned and final embroidered dresses quite normal for a casual day paired with sneakers or sandals. 

The most important part one should understand about Marc Jacobs is that he is a risk taker, and the woman who wears his label is one who is very confident in who she is. She doesn’t have a season in her wardrobe as well as a dress code from daywear to evening. She just puts whatever on, and as long as its luxury, doesn’t give a damn about what the rest have to say. And that’s what we love about a Marc Jacobs show. You never know what he’ll bring next season.