Part 2 of 2: A Continuation of Commercial Paris Collections

Part 2 of 2: A review of Stella McCartney, Elie Saab, and Saint Laurent Spring 2014 Collections

A close-up of a Saint Laurent SS14 red zebra and bow-tie sequined dress; a Stella McCartney patchwork lace dress; a red embroidered Elie Saab dress.

A continuation of Part 1 of 2: Paris Fashion Week is Full of Excitement. 

I respect how Stella McCartney has developed her own niche that works so well for the label. Her clothes are always chic, sexy, and comfortable looking with the sportiness she injects into them. Although lately, I believe she may be having too much of a commercial or resort thing stuck in her mind. We were all dying for her edgy relaxed silhouettes that worked for all women when she started, but with so many new designers and high competition today she's staying behind compared to other designers who have developed much more intense creativity. 

She hasn’t lost it all though. Some that were noteworthy here were her interpretations of slimming track suits that came in feminine colors - burgundy, blue, and rose - that focused on the daily needs that have attracted her customers. And those final splendid dresses – colorful patchworks of lace that looked beautiful in the front and the back – will have her women very content for another season.

Elie Saab also appears to be mixing in commercial and his signature lace and embroidery in his ready-to-wear collections. All there is to say is that they make a beautiful collection his loyal customers and young girls will be pleased with in delicate pink, white, green, red, and black. Floral prints and appliqué statements were a plus. 

I’ve already talked about Hedi Slimane as new creative director for Saint Laurent. While on the runway this collection may look trashy and horrible on some of those skinny models, these clothes look superbly different on real people – Kate Upton, Angelina Jolie, Scarlett Johansson – and even normal on his menswear counterpart. There is power to these looks and if Slimane wants to shock the fashion world again, it’s hard to now, because most of us feel comfortable with what he offers. It’s just a matter of imagining someone perhaps like Johansson in them (minus those kitsch sock heels). 

He presented again his grungy leather pieces – skirts, pants, biker jackets, dresses, suits – and emphasized still on chiffon button-down shirts, slim fitted tuxedo cigarette pants paired with borrowed men’s suits. What felt new was a sequined dress, like one he sent out the runway at the beginning of the show and another red zebra stripped dress with a sequin bow-tie wrapped around the waist. There were also cropped jackets, a red sequined striped top, sequined silver-y suits and miniskirt combo, and his final half-sleeve with a puffed up shoulder embroidered with sequined red lips that stated luxury.

He also included color like a deep-cut green mini and asymmetrical blue dress, and a pink strapless one over a black blazer. I personally found a gold metallic wrapped dress he showed would make a great statement for those girls with special attitude. Overall, this wasn't a bad collection if you first learn to see it from a different perspective. As long as that cash registers keeps ringing, nobody else gives a damn what haters have to say. He's just doing his job now, making this label return to everyone's mouth. And trust me, these clothes do look much more inviting on the floor (retail store) then what saw Monday night.

Spring/Summer 2013 Trends - 9. Naughty Sheer

Emilio Pucci Spring/Summer 2013

Sheer is one of the most worn fabrics around our city in the summer, but as clear and transparent as the runway, we yet to seek for one. Designers proved how naughty sheer can become if used correctly. Sheer was all about seduction, authority, and femininity for the spring collections. As you may have remembered from our past posts, spring/summer 2013 should be all about seduction. Emilio Pucci, an Italian house known for prints, presented various designs of sheer. Pants, dresses, and tops were all present in this collection. Prints, which were what we expected, were seen very rarely, as Peter Dundas decided to take an unusual route like other designers. The collection was not as bad as we thought it may have been. Franciso Costa at Calvin Klein gave us one of the most sexual collections the brand had presented. Each dress brought attention at the bust with kinky designs. The play of construction and lengths were the main elements. Stella McCartney’s athletic dresses could not have been left behind as well. Her dresses marked attitude and style. Valentino’s black sheer sleeve and lace embroidered dress below was a remarkable treasure we couldn’t let go of. Akris presented a collection that should be in the minds of several street style ladies preparing for next months fashion shows. If anyone wanted to play with sheer, Akris took the crown in their ninety-one piece collection. We have a question. Would you be willing to wear an item from the Akris spring/summer 2013 collection?

Calvin Klein Spring/Summer 2013

Stella McCartney Spring/Summer 2013

Valentino Spring/Summer 2013

Akris Spring/Summer 2013

Akris Spring/Summer 2013

Spring/Summer 2013 Trends - 3. Le Smoking

Fitted look at Saint Laurent Spring/Summer 2013

In 1966 Yves Saint Laurent introduced “le smoking,” which became a synonymous symbol for the designer and the brand itself. The sexier interpretation on menswear for women brought new codes to women’s daily lifestyle. Spring/Summer 2013 runways were full of inspirational “smokings.” Hedi Slimane new director of Saint Laurent showed one of the best luscious fitted jackets that only the house of YSL was once a legend of. Pure Saint Laurent DNA was written all over the collection, reminding us of how seductive a tuxedo can actually be for a woman. Raf Simons new director of Dior did not leave the roots of the house behind as well. He interpreted the feminine suits that were tailored so impeccably, just as Mr. Christian Dior had once done when running his brand. Stella McCartney opted to present a slouchier version of the iconic smokings, giving it a more athletic and street style kick. 

Playful version at Stella McCartney Spring/Summer 2013

Tailored look at Christian Dior Spring/Summer 2013